Hot rodders have a term- period correct. Often used incorrectly, it means parts and methods from the time the style of car is supposed to represent. The age of that wood would make it an acceptable addition to your rifle.

1 year per inch of thickness plus a year after for things to stabalize.

Too many contingencies on this subject to even come close to covering in this format. The 1" per year is a commercial standard for most, but not all, species.  There is air dried and their is kiln dried with the later most likely to create stresses such as ' case hardening ' from gas fired kiln operators pushing timber too hot and too fast. For lots of standard market hardwoods the 1" per year generally yields a workable timber but this formula runs into problems when you approach 10/4 and 12/4". Few commercial kiln driers want to handle timber thicker than 10/4" since it ties up more valuable kiln space than their pricing can afford. 

So big heavy highly figured timber pieces such as used for gun stocks cannot be trusted to any formula. The good stuff is air dried for years and years and monitored with moisture meters. The tricky part with highly figured wood is the presence of internal stress but then again some species like most of the walnuts and live oaks though highly figured tend to stabilize even though they don't look like they should. Wood is always alive and always reactive to moisture/humidity so the end user needs to understand and compensate for this. 

Rick

Last tree I cut up got about a thousand blanks plus forestock blanks. Of course more than several had defects. Saved all the ones with defects and planned to drill into them periodically to determine rate of drying. Don't remember ever drilling into one but it was a good thought. Still have them scattered about used for dunnage and this and that. Good blocking or whacking something. I should drill one.

Didn't Browning try packing their blanks in salt to speed up the drying process? I have heard about the subsequent failure.

Many years ago A Canadian A explained to me in detail how Walnut is dried. First you soak the blanks in antifreeze. Then after a certain amount of time, I cannot remember the soak time, you stick them in a microwave oven. Followed his instructions to the letter but only on one reject blank. I suspected he was an idiot and it turns out we're both idiots. Him for coming up with the idea and me for doing it. Only thing I did right was using the wifes microwave when she was out of the house.

westerner wrote on Oct 4^th, 2025 at 3:31pm:

oneatatime wrote on Oct 4^th, 2025 at 2:48pm:


Never heard of Ruger using salt.

Nice looking wood Joe.   
When I got out of the Army I worked at a wood product firm that specialized in Douglas Fir columns. One day we unloaded a few box cars filled with with 16’ and longer 2x4s onto racks with short pieces between each layer that went into a 50 foot long kiln.  I think they cooked for 3-4 days.  Some came out really warped despite the way they were stacked to prevent as much warping as possible.  They ended up having all the knots cut out anyway with long enough pieces being run through a finger joint glueing machine.  My only kiln dried wood exposure. 
How many times have you moved your wood stash Joe.

The trees I worked on in Anderson and Chico, Calif.  Cut em in the winter,bring back to Idaho and sticker and load up in a cabin and seal it up. go one year to let the wood stabilize and keep the grain tight.then can be mover where air can circulate. Third year put up in the rafters of the barn till they cure out. go slow and have tight grained wood. Taught from Don Cantwell...an old logger and Ed Preslik both very well known for there gun stocks in Chico,CA. I did paint the end grain.....

Rick. 
You got us confused. I looked up resorcinol and see it is good for acne.

Thanks Bud. I missed most Puyallup matches this year due to a bad back.  Hope to be back shooting at John’s next match.

Joe, That piece looks like a candidate to make a nice candle holder for your end table!