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Richard
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Finishing CPA stock
Jun 22nd, 2025 at 10:43am
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I’m ordering a CPA rifle for silhouette. I’m thinking of ordering it ready to sand and finish. Has anyone else tried that? Any thoughts on doing that?

Thanks,
Rich
  
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Schuetzendave
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Re: Finishing CPA stock
Reply #1 - Jun 22nd, 2025 at 11:13am
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I have done a plain wood silhouette stock for my CPA as well as CPA stocks for my Rolling Block standard wood and semi fancy BSA Martini International MKII.

Easy to fit and finish as long as you take the time to work down with different grits of sandpaper and thoroughly sand etc.

CPA has provided good wood selection when I requested a wood upgrade.
« Last Edit: Jun 22nd, 2025 at 11:32am by Schuetzendave »  
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nuclearcricket
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Re: Finishing CPA stock
Reply #2 - Jun 22nd, 2025 at 11:28am
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If you are careful its pretty easy to finish the CPA stock. Where you need to be really careful is around the upper and lower tangs and the metal is finished and you don't want to hit that with abrasive paper. Other than that its a pretty straight forward job. 
Sam
  
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Schuetzendave
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Re: Finishing CPA stock
Reply #3 - Jun 22nd, 2025 at 11:35am
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Tape the metal surfaces prior to ever trying to sand the stock with it on the action.

I do the last little bit of finishing sanding with the stock off the action once I start sanding down the tape.

I rub on Tung oil with my finger since it fills the pores better and puts on an even light coat that will not run (which happens when you use a brush).
« Last Edit: Jun 22nd, 2025 at 11:46am by Schuetzendave »  
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oneatatime
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Re: Finishing CPA stock
Reply #4 - Jun 22nd, 2025 at 12:00pm
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These were unfinished wood from CPA. I sent them a blank of Colorado walnut to go on the CPA they were building for me; I sent a blank for them to cut for the Stevens 414; I ordered the wood for the Ballard from them to cut (just select from standard). It just takes time for you to prepare for the finish but since I use British red root oil the preparation time was minor compared to the finish time.
  
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ADK22
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Re: Finishing CPA stock
Reply #5 - Jun 22nd, 2025 at 2:49pm
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I did the exact thing. Wood was sanded and ready for finish. I followed the instructions Gail gave me and it was an easy process. I had no experience in this before this one and mine came out very nice. Feel free to PM me if you have more questions.
  
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boats
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Re: Finishing CPA stock
Reply #6 - Jun 23rd, 2025 at 7:13am
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My first CPA was bought unfinished, no special selection still some nice walnut.

Sanded and finished using methods I have used on furniture and lathe work for years.  “ going through the grits” sanding not skipping any 120 to 2000 grit paper from Klingspor”  after initial shape at about 180 grit applied a thin wood filler “Mylands” and worked up to 220 then first coat of Watco wet sanded. At some point shifted to dry sanding, wood tells me when, probably 1200 or 1500 grit. After the finish really starts to shine. Last and after the oil is good and dry light coat of wax. I’m using mostly “Williamsville” it’s thin and rubs on with the palm of your hand easily.

Several years later sent it to a stock man who checkered it and at my request re oiled after with Watco and Wax. 30 years later it still shows well and the occasional Nick and bump blends in, adds character to the gun.

My 2nd CPA Pope style high comb stock went for upgraded wood, nice figure and finish. After about 20 years sold the Pope stock and had CPA fit finish and checker a Sporter stye stock to suit local match rules. They did a very good job either one and well worth the cost vs time and effort to finish my self.

3rd CPA ordered unfinished and very plain receiver blued not color cased. Stocked and sighted for longer range. Loaned it to Ken Burklow “line cutter” on this forum for the Quigley. He liked the gun and bought it from me. Transforming the gun into a real showpiece. Engraving and stock finish.

All my original Rifles and Shotguns  have original finish, most cleaned with soap and water then rubbed with oil and wax. Lately have shifted to simple boiled linseed oil and wax mixed and hand rubbed. It’s a good solution and preserves original appearance. I wax those guns metal to preserves and protect without a strip and refinish. Like the results better than most reblues or color case jobs.

Have a few shotguns bought already professionally refinished by real craftsmen, those jobs are worth the cost, particularly bringing out Damascus figure on barrels and not harming originals action engraving 

That’s all I know about it 

Boats 

  
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MikeK
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Re: Finishing CPA stock
Reply #7 - Jun 23rd, 2025 at 11:40am
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I went that route on my CPA stock as well.  

Got the wood, extra fancy, ready to sand and finish.  After sanding to about 400 grit, I started finishing with Tru-Oil.  I wet sanded the first five or six coats to help fill in the pores on the wood, then continued on till I got about 25 coats, lightly dry sanding between coats.  The final coat produced a more shine than I wanted, so I did a final rub with Stock Sheen.

The process took about a month.  You don't want to rush this.

Mike
« Last Edit: Jun 24th, 2025 at 9:12am by MikeK »  
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TheLooseMoose
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Re: Finishing CPA stock
Reply #8 - Jun 25th, 2025 at 6:18am
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I liked the fact that I could save costs by ordering it unfinished from CPA, so I used my savings to purchase upgraded wood quality. Then I had the pleasure of finishing the beautiful wood to my liking. After many many coats of tung and walnut oil, I like how it finished. 

There’s something to be said about spending a couple months of time watching a roughed out set of lumber turn into an exquisite piece of art. Not all will, but I enjoyed the investment of time and appreciate that I had a hand in creating an exceptional rifle.

  
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Oakdale
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Re: Finishing CPA stock
Reply #9 - Jun 26th, 2025 at 7:54pm
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That’s a lot like I did. Not so much to save some money. I finished the furniture on my Rem Rolling Block and thought I’d have “fun” 

I ordered the rifle in late Sept. and it arrived here in late Feb. I spent all of March sanding, paying close attention to the fit of the wood to the upper and lower tang areas. The wood was always removed from the rifle for any sanding.

After that patience testing activity, it was time to select the finish. I ordered the wood as “extra fancy”. I learned that CPA uses Birchwood’s Tru Oil. I found some and started with that. A friend told me that for his CPA’s he diluted the Tru Oil 50/50 with paint thinner. I did not do that.

To me, the Tru Oil came out too dark and too brown. Before using it,I rubbed a rag with water on the wood and the result was really nice, convincing me I wanted that appearance for the final finish. Attempting to get away from the Tru Oil darkness, I found some small cans of stain made by Varathane. I started with Golden Pecan, then Gunstock and settling on Sedona Red. I really wanted a hint of red but not as red as the photos I’ve seen of old original Stevens rifles. I did not try to sand off the Tru Oil layer, the wood just kept taking the Varathane stains.

After several applications of the Sedona Red, I convinced myself to stop. At the end I applied two applications of Renaissance wax, something I read being used over on the Shiloh Rifle forum. My #1 goal was to avoid the final look of an overly glossy stock having been dipped in plastic. My final appearance is more of a satin finish, avoiding the high gloss.

Do it again? Yes, but not until I get this CPA to shoot, which requires me to find a Weber .38-55 breach seating tool. It’s a lengthy adventure!

Tom
  
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oneatatime
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Re: Finishing CPA stock
Reply #10 - Jun 26th, 2025 at 7:59pm
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Tom, tell us more about what you've been loading that won't shoot.
  
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Oakdale
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Re: Finishing CPA stock
Reply #11 - Jun 27th, 2025 at 10:41am
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Oneatatime,

Ok, I’ll try. Actually the CPA’s shooting side of life is coming around. I just have to be even more patient than I was with the finishing.

CPA sent me a dimensioned sketch of the area of their chamber that is provided for breach seating. I gave those dimensions to Accurate and they made a tapered, 4-cavity brass bullet mold. That’s what I’ve been using so far. (I have a 4-cavity 335-grain NOE brass bullet mold and a Saeco #571 2-cavity mold and both are tapered but both are way too “fat”.)

Since I don’t have a Weber type breach seater tool, I insert a bullet, then insert the CPA plugged case, tap on the base of the case with a nylon rod and plastic headed hammer (my fingers aren’t strong enough to push the bullet in all the way in), then use the rifle’s “camming action” to finish pushing on the plugged case to finishing seating the bullet. Remove the plugged case….I did try to shoot the plugged case a few times so far!

That inserting the bullet, picking up the plugged case, inserting it and then picking up the rod and hammer and then tapping on the rod and then put them back on the bench (out of the way), is distracting at a CBA BR match. That activity is what I was thinking of when I said “but not until I get this CPA to shoot”. 

The 9-12 bhn Accurate bullet weighs about 345-grains. (I was hoping for 320-330-grains). The barrel is a 30” Bartlien 1:12, 5-groove. (Never heard of Bartlien before I got into looking at a CPA.) The unsized bullet is lubed with SPG in a 0.380” RCBS CB sizing die. I started with 16.0-grains of IMR 4227, then 17.0 grains, then 18.0 grains and will now next try 18.5-grains.

I’m on the hunt for the Weber type breach seater….still.

Tom
  
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oneatatime
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Re: Finishing CPA stock
Reply #12 - Jun 27th, 2025 at 1:52pm
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While you are waiting you might try making a shorter plugged case so you can use the action to seat it. I made an adjustable plugged case.
  
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rkaires
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Re: Finishing CPA stock
Reply #13 - Jun 28th, 2025 at 5:54am
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Hi Tom,

Check the dimensions on the bullet your using.The Mos mould CPA offers is .378" tapered to .368". The moulds they offer are cut to fit their chamber. I do use Weber and a Mos seater in my CPA's but before I obtained them I used the plugged case they offered. I was able to seat the bullet with the camming of the breach. This was for the Mos bullet mould I obtained from them. I couldn't use the plugged case with other moulds I have. I would have to use a tool to get it started before I was able to use the breach block.

This was the same for all the barrels I have on my CPA's. 25-20 WCF, 32-20 CPA, 32-40, 32 RKS & 40-50SS. 

  

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Re: Finishing CPA stock
Reply #14 - Jun 28th, 2025 at 5:56am
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