I’ve used a variety of stock finishes over the years, but haven’t found one I return to time and again. The latest one with claimed magical properties is called Timberluxe. Has anyone tried it?
If not that one, what is your go to, never fail brand? I’m looking for an in the wood, matte to semi gloss oil finish.
Thanks, Richard

I used Laurel Mountain Permalyn Sealer for many years also until I got tired of paying the fairly high price and shipping from Brownells. I then tried Minn Wax Wipe On Poly and it appeared to look and apply just like Laurel Mountain. I've been using it for the last couple decades now and nothing else. 
WOP is extremely thin, and saturates deeply into raw wood. It is super easy to apply with a rag dipped in a pan of WOP and then excess wiped off. First 4-5 coats wont even get wiped off as it soaks in so well. The end finish looks like a hand rubber oil finish, but much more durable. Any dings or scratches in an old WOP finish are super easy to touch up with more added over the repaired damage if it happens. It also is great for refinishing as it seems to not have bad reactions with old finish as some finishes do.
WOP comes in gloss or satin, and I always use gloss because I can knock it down with rottenstone powder, but tough to bring up satin if you want a higher sheen. And WOP is available at almost any hardware store.

I like to use one coat of pure tung oil for deep penetration and several coats 10-15, of low gloss Formby tung oil blend. It keeps the wood from moving when spending several days out in the elements.

Kurt

For the price of Laurel Mtn. at $18 I got a big can of WOP that was $12 and I could finish a dozen or more stocks. I like supporting small companies, but I'm OK supporting Minn Wax also since it's made here in the US, and still saves me a lot of money.

Thanks for the responses so far. I have used some of the products mentioned. The others give me new options. 
The price of tiny cans of magical fluid don’t scare me. By the time you get to stock finish, you have hundreds if not thousands of dollars invested in your project, so it’s hardly a bump on the bottom line.

I’ve used Pro Custom Oil from Brownells, always had pretty good luck, but it’s too shiny, as is Tru Oil. 
Both will chip.
The only way I had any luck with BLO was to cut it 50% with mineral spirits. When I used it without thinning, it never seemed to dry. 
I tried Lin Speed and simply didn’t care for it. 
The Laurel Mountain product worked well, but is really dark, with corresponding darkening of wood. 
In a perfect world finish would be clear or nearly so. 
There was a great product called Arrow that truly worked, but it was discontinued last year.

I have used the Birchwood Casey Genuine Oil for many years.
Start with the BC Seal and Fill, for a couple of coats, then
finger rub in the BC GO. for several coats with 0000 steel wool between.
beltfed/Arnie

What I use came from a old High Power shooter that I got to join my club.

It is 50/50 linseed oil and spar vanish. He did his HW stock with it. He also had done testing with it and did some walnut, about 3 coats, at least that's what I do. He weighted the piece and then soaked it, submerge in water for a week and then weighted it again. It weighted the same.

I do it by rubbing it in, until it won't take anymore, then do it 2 more times.

I've seen the Genuine Oil but haven't heard from anyone I knew and/or trusted. It was another possible choice, if only because of it's low cost.
I know I'm going to drop more than a few $$ on new products before I'm done, but I will hopefully have some better answers than I do now.
Thanks for all of the input so far. Richard beltfed wrote on Mar 31^st, 2025 at 9:35am: