I'm a sucker for mysterious guns that need work for a cheap price. This one was probably more than I should have paid though. It's 25-20 WCF. Has a huge barrel. Think the muzzle end has a threaded attachment. Firing pin hangs up and is too long. Trigger spring is broke or missing. I'll start messing with it this weekend. No markings on receiver or breech block. Any ideas?

Appears to be a Marlin Ballard #2 cast breech block, so likely the action is also. When you look at the rear of the barrel can you see if it's hollow under the barrel on the receiver? Should be a hollow space you could fit your finger into if it's a cast action.
If it's a cast action be careful not to load your .25-20 ammo very warm, and don't shoot any factory .25-20 in it.
The breech block should still split as normal, and the insert in the front will stay with one of the halves.

Speaking of Ballards I just ordered a kit from Rodney Storie's last retirement run of stuff. They are 8620 steel material. Thinking of 38 Ballard long as a possible chambering for it. When case hardened are those actions any stronger than the orginal cast action or even the forged ones?




JMH

It is a cast action. Found the breech serial numbers and they match the receiver. Couldn't wait so I pulled it apart today. Found a shortened 22 shell and a coil spring in the trigger spring area. Looks like it didn't stay in place. 

The firing pin is fitted to a block. What works for making it stay besides soldering? Would red loctite seal and bearings work?

Thought it was loctite 292 but I'm not finding that.

Want to make the pin stay in the block.

Thanks. Can't find my silver solder. I'll pick up some 260.

jimmy wrote on Mar 27^th, 2025 at 10:40pm:


That might tighten up and raise the firing pin strike towards center with new screws in the lever and link positions. Tightening up the droop will also raise the firing pin strike, so get those addressed first before making a new firing pin.

bobw wrote on Mar 28^th, 2025 at 12:39pm:


Thanks Bob! I missed that. I thought it was hitting low? He's probably going to need to set the barrel back a thread and then set headspace and rechamber to tighten it up and get firing pin strike centered.

jimmy wrote on Mar 28^th, 2025 at 2:56pm:


Maybe a little tighter lockup might lower the firing pin strike? But could possibly make up a new firing pin to adjust the center to strike center of the primer. Then a new plate to align with a slightly offset firing pin too.
What are the scope bases? They don't look like typical target scope bases, and I can't tell if they're Weaver or picatinny rail bases, or what?

The mounts go to something but don't remember what.

jimmy wrote on Mar 28^th, 2025 at 6:34pm:


I'd like to see a picture of the link if you take it apart and take a picture. It would also help if you can post an approximate hole to hole measurement on the link. I think someone made a new link and got it too long.

bobw wrote on Mar 29^th, 2025 at 12:10pm:


Could be, and the return or tail of that lever is indeed over bent. But not sure I can tell if the forward part of that lever is bent or not? The back has much more bend to it than factory were. Maybe it got heated to bend and too much heat let the rest of the lever bend also?
A link picture will tell a lot!

I know there are different hole spacing, but according to this drawing at .307, yours is way to long at .366.

Looks like the original holes are .172.   
Bob

I need one but will make my own.

Good luck on your project.
Bob

O’HARE TOOL INC. made them a few years ago….got an assortment of ten or so.


Tom Klinger

Looks like I should get or make one close to print then start adjusting from there.

Is .205 thick mild steel or aluminum available? Haven't found a decent metal stock supply place after moving to Ok. 

ETA. .195 will work to test.

Well this is different. I posted early on I thought it had a threaded muzzle attachment. The forend screw looked cheap and the forend wasn't square. So I pulled the forend screw and the forend is glued or ?? to the barrel. I try pulling the forend off and the barrel moves.  I'm like what the....   Then I noticed the breech wasn't turning and I'm really wondering what the.... heck. 

Ends up it's a sleeve over the barrel with the threads at the end. The scope mounts were not square and now I know why. So it is a tensioned barrel set up? Guess this is why I buy this stuff. Lots of entertainment. Typing on my phone so I'll just show a big picture.

bobw wrote on Mar 31^st, 2025 at 5:36pm:


Thanks. Was thinking of filing the long link until I got the right distance then making a new link from the edge to edge and pin diameter. Just have a small lathe now so it's possible to thin to the right thickness but is a pain.

Wow! I've never seen anything like that before.

It shows out of stock. 

Anyone want to suggest a light load or FPS to shoot for that would be safe? PM if you don't want it public.

jimmy wrote on Apr 4^th, 2025 at 6:55pm:


Yes. I see them on occasion, but usually .22 barrels are 24" and lightweight. But it would be easy to reline a larger barrel as long as the bore is slightly smaller than liner diameter. 
But since Ballard barrels aren't rollstamped, almost any barrel could be fitted to a Ballard action if it's the size you want. And considering what liners and liner work costs, I chose to just buy a 27" heavy round Green Mountain barrel and use that instead. It cost me $91 at GM on one of their sales, and regular price was $122. That's less than the price of a liner.

jimmy wrote on Apr 4^th, 2025 at 7:57pm:


.312" blank would be great, but GM doesn't list any.