You need a quicker powder that will burn nicely at lower pressure.   My loads in that caliber are 13-14 gr 4227, depending on bullet weight, which should run 160-180 gr.   I prefer LP primers. Look for a bullet that will just slip into a fired case.   Doesn’t hurt if they are quite a bit over groove diameter.

CHRIS

rgchristensen wrote on Nov 16^th, 2024 at 5:59pm:

My go to, match load is 13.0 gr 4227, with a 185 gr stop ring bullet.

I shoot 13-14 gr IMR4227 depending on which rifle I am shooting with a 170 gr stop ring bullet. My favorite rifle has a weak main spring so I use LP primers in it. The ASSRA targets seem to be the right thickness, so when seating the pistol primer, I let the primer cut out a paper shim. LP primers are about 10 thousands thinner than LR primers. All other rifles I use LR primers. I probably worry too much about the pistol primers moving back under pressure and hammering the block face, but then why take a chance when paper shims are so easy to make.
Mike

I corrected my previous reply (my memory of 50 years ago is my excuse). I checked my dusty records and came up with using good old Lyman 316475 with about 10.5 grains of 2400 or 17 grains of 3031 (don't know why I even tried that). More recently with Buffalo Arms stop ring bullets in DWM Berdan primed brass it was around 10.5 grains of H108 or around 14.3 grains of H4227. I really need to get back around to working some with the 8.15x46Rs but I get sidetracked by my 32-40.

A few years ago, when powder was very hard to come by, I bought 8lb of 300MP. I’ve been told it works good in the 8.15x46r. I’ve yet to try it.
Mike

Definitely, through many years and many rifles they have varied between .316 and .321.

I don't know as yet what my bore is. I am going to check and probably order a mold if I can't find any store bought.




JMH

As regards the suggestion for "moderate" loads, the Aydt action is large and heavy but not particularly "strong" in the modern sense. It is plenty adequate for the loads listed here and the target loads it was designed for but double load one accidentally and it may well damage the gun. I once many decades ago picked one up for $20 that had its receiver cracked and the barrel modified at the breech by a significant overload. I'm sure no one was injured by the event but was definitely surprised. Possibly someone decided it should be a 32 Win Special or something. Most of the barrel now lives, back to an 8.15x46R, on a 71 Mauser rifle platform reworked as a schuetzen (the bottom one in the attached picture) and I had the action TIG welded and a heavy 22 barrel put on it. Anyway, load it the way it was intended and you will have an accurate rifle that will not be harmed in any way.

My mold was cut to the dimensions of the throat (.328 stop ring) and the bore(.312 nose rider).  . 
jhm wrote on Nov 20^th, 2024 at 8:30pm:

Yes, you could even shoot up to 190 gr RN bullets. Shooting breech seated, I could shoot 200 gr spitzers w/o tipping.

There is about a 98% chance, that your twist rate is 14.17 or 360mm.

Here’s a picture

I wrote the above and thought some more about my Aydt.  Mine will only set off pistol primers.  Not enough strength in the mainspring to ignite rifle primers.

The whole concept of stop-ring bullets is to make it possible to reload the 8.15 cartridge on the kitchen table.  The German & Austrian shooters had decapping & priming tools that worked with Berdan primers.  Decap the case, scrape everything clean, seat a new primer, pour in a pre-measured powder charge, and seat a stop-ring bullet with your thumb.   

The powder charges came in little sealed paper tubes.  If the tube was not combustible, just tear off the end and pour the powder into the case.  No scales, no sizing. If you bought the bullet, they came already lubed.

When I was in the 4th grade (1949) and lived in the Chicago suburbs, my friend's grandfather had a German schuetzen rifle.  He taught us to cast stop-ring bullets with the lead pot on the kitchen stove.  We loaded cartridges on his kitchen table.  But we never got to shoot the rifle.

I had NEI make a 2 cavity stop ring mold back when Walt was still with us, one cavity is a round nose, cast about 170 gr at 20 to 1, the other is a spritzer and cast 175at 20to1, both shoot very well.
From what I have read, many of the Aydts were throated for the 16h bullet.
Mike

My round nose closely resembles the 16h bullet on page 269 of Alte Scheibenwaffen Vol3.  I only breech seat in a Stiegele martini that some fool rechambered to 32 Winchester Special, the others I use a stop ring bullet. I don’t own an Aydt, so can’t speak to the rifle. I have seen a couple rechambered for rounds I would consider unsafe in the Aydt action.
Mike

Posted this in the for sale section(wrong place). I did a chamber cast and my numbers are as follows. Bore and groove .313/.304 and the throat just in front of the case mouth .343 so what bullet do you suggest?



JMH

Will give it a try. Thanks Mr Frank.




JMH

KaiserKong wrote on Nov 25^th, 2024 at 10:30pm:

That is true but, most 311299's, found on Ebay, will be the original spec of .314/.303 and most 311299's that have the Ideal stamp, will be those dimensions or, larger. So, if your looking for a used mold, look for a Ideal.

NOE has a clone of this bullet and they are in stock, with PB & GC in the same mold:

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I've shot a early Ideal, 308329 in my rifle, breech seated, that casts .315 I reamed the GC in to a PB.

It's fairly simple. For 30 - 32 cal, using 20/1, you need a reamer that is .002 larger than the size you want the base band to cast.

It is best done in a mill. Put the mold blocks, in a vice (don't clamp to hard), indicate the cavity for center and squareness. Make sure the reamer is running true and ream to the depth you want.

You can buy reamers, any size you wan. They are made in .001 increments. Ebay & MSC will have them.

It can also be done in a drill press, using mold handles, by putting small clamps on the top and bottom of the blocks and holding it, on the table, under the reamer. The blocks should follow any run out that the reamer has but, I don't do it that way.

Another mold that can be used, is the 311413. It's a really good bullet for this application and they all cast, at least .314, unless they are marked "U" or other marking that indicate that they are under size. They have a long GC shank and you can ream a base band and still have a grease groove left, forward of it like this one I did.

It was my first 8.15 x 46R bullet and shoots very well. My groove is .316 and the mold only casts .314 but, I reamed the GC so, it casts .318. I also shot it BSed but, it could be shot fixed, with good loading technique.

My JP Sauer stalking rifle really like a Buffalo Arms 180 grain step ring bullet in front of 12 grains of 4227.