I was at a YCSA match yesterday & had just started on the last relay (rams).  After the 1st shot, which I missed, the block locked up (couldn’t lower it more than an inch or so).  After finagling with the action, it finally lowered.  I dropped the block out & did not spot a problem.  After reinstalling the extractor & block I finished the relay hitting the next 9 rams.  Thinking about it on the way home I figured the firing pin return spring may have broken allowing the firing pin to stay forward, preventing lowering the block.  After arriving home & attempting to remove the breechblock, it was locked up.  So, after some thought, I dropped a rod down the bore to ensure the firing pin was pushed back & was able to lower & remove the block.  What I found was a broken firing pin.  The broken front end of the pin protruded out of the firing pin hole & locked up the block.  I’m very surprised I was able to finish the match – not experiencing the lockup again & especially hitting the next 9 rams with a broken firing pin.   

I’ve shot about 5,000 rounds through the rifle prior to the pin breaking.  No doubt I stressed the pin many times due to forgetting to pull back the hammer prior to lowering the block between shots.

BTW, I ended up with a 29/40 (with 1 chicken).  I’m usually good on the laydowns but a shi??y chicken shooter.

Wayne

You don't say the brand but on my C Sharps, I have a broken FP almost once a year. I buy 4 pins and springs at a time and reorder when I use the third one. I am VERY careful to be sure to I move the hammer to half cock prior to opening the action. Failing to do that invites a broken pin. 

I have discovered a broken pin after finishing a relay and recall shots not going where I thought they should go. Erratic ignition is what I blame it on. 

MIshooter

Schuetzendave wrote on Sep 29^th, 2024 at 5:27pm:


Dave,

That an excellent idea.  Thanks.

Wayne

Picture of divot in extractor on CPA to prevent snagging of the firing pin.
Does not show well with the block in place.

I take less off to ensure enough of the extractor engages my case.

For rifles with extractors on the side I put a bit more of an agressive groove inclined on the bottom lip of the chamber mouth.

Use a dremmel tool to either cut a divot in the extractor or to put a groove on the chamber lip.

Prevents the breaking of firing pins from snagging and also prevents the block locking up when you do break a firing pin.

Another way a Shiloh can hang up on opening is if the cover plate on the firing pin slides over a bit it will hang up the action.  I've never had it happen in all of my years shooting my Shiloh's but it happened to a good friend of mine.

Chris.

Schuetzendave, you use a dremel to to the same on the sharps? I’m guessing it doesn’t take much of a grove for that to work.

I am curious as to why an "angled groove"  on the chamber lip would help.  In my experience,  when the firing pin hangs up it is in the primer of the fired case, not the lip of the chamber.  A tap with a cleaning rod will usually solve the problem.

George

Schuetzendave wrote on Sep 29^th, 2024 at 11:17pm:


Dave,

Thanks for the photo.  My Shiloh Sharps has a 9:00 extractor so I'll cut the small groove in the chamber lip at 6:00.

Wayne