I was at a YCSA match yesterday & had just started on the last relay (rams).  After the 1st shot, which I missed, the block locked up (couldn’t lower it more than an inch or so).  After finagling with the action, it finally lowered.  I dropped the block out & did not spot a problem.  After reinstalling the extractor & block I finished the relay hitting the next 9 rams.  Thinking about it on the way home I figured the firing pin return spring may have broken allowing the firing pin to stay forward, preventing lowering the block.  After arriving home & attempting to remove the breechblock, it was locked up.  So, after some thought, I dropped a rod down the bore to ensure the firing pin was pushed back & was able to lower & remove the block.  What I found was a broken firing pin.  The broken front end of the pin protruded out of the firing pin hole & locked up the block.  I’m very surprised I was able to finish the match – not experiencing the lockup again & especially hitting the next 9 rams with a broken firing pin.   

I’ve shot about 5,000 rounds through the rifle prior to the pin breaking.  No doubt I stressed the pin many times due to forgetting to pull back the hammer prior to lowering the block between shots.

BTW, I ended up with a 29/40 (with 1 chicken).  I’m usually good on the laydowns but a shi??y chicken shooter.

Wayne

You don't say the brand but on my C Sharps, I have a broken FP almost once a year. I buy 4 pins and springs at a time and reorder when I use the third one. I am VERY careful to be sure to I move the hammer to half cock prior to opening the action. Failing to do that invites a broken pin. 

I have discovered a broken pin after finishing a relay and recall shots not going where I thought they should go. Erratic ignition is what I blame it on. 

MIshooter

Schuetzendave wrote on Sep 29^th, 2024 at 5:27pm:


Dave,

That an excellent idea.  Thanks.

Wayne

Picture of divot in extractor on CPA to prevent snagging of the firing pin.
Does not show well with the block in place.

I take less off to ensure enough of the extractor engages my case.

For rifles with extractors on the side I put a bit more of an agressive groove inclined on the bottom lip of the chamber mouth.

Use a dremmel tool to either cut a divot in the extractor or to put a groove on the chamber lip.

Prevents the breaking of firing pins from snagging and also prevents the block locking up when you do break a firing pin.

Another way a Shiloh can hang up on opening is if the cover plate on the firing pin slides over a bit it will hang up the action.  I've never had it happen in all of my years shooting my Shiloh's but it happened to a good friend of mine.

Chris.