I was digging around in some boxes looking for some 30 caliber bullets when I found two bags of bullets coated with moly. one bag is a flat base spire point of 168gr and the other a HPBT of 155gr. Total of perhaps 65-70 bullets. As I recall I received 100 of each as a gift and some point from someone I can't remember. I think I will just load them and let my wife shoot them at paper.

I haven't heard anything about moly in years but I know there was another treatment that came along later that was supposed to be better. I haven't heard anything about that in years either but I started focusing on loading BP cartridge so perhaps I just missed it.

Is there a new coating or has that trend died?

Several guys our club are using store bought (from small bullet companies) coated 38/55 & 32/40 bullets, red green all sorts of colors. . Another is coating  his own using standard powder coating methods. Same thing you would use to powder coat a machine part. They found out about coating somewhere recently, probably on the internet .

Gave me a few to try never did. Have no need to use anything but grease grove bullets with SPG lube. Like to tinker may be worth a try. I just shoot what has worked for many years, never experiment with my single shot loads.

Boats 

Thre was another, Hexagonal Boron Nitride. It was thought to be better than sliced bread. The high power shooter David Tubb, I believe, touted it.

I found a box of moly-coated .30-150gr JSPs once at a gun show and shot them in my 03. The rifle digested them without complaint or comment, and they were as accurate as other 150-gr bullets.

Moly coating was developed by Merrill Martin of Precision Shooting back in the 80s, IIRC.  The claim was that the same loadings achieved higher velocities with lower pressures and the same accuracy because the coating was so slick.

The “proper” coating method devised by Martin involved tumbling the bullets with lead shot and a tablespoon of molybdenum disulfide.  This would allegedly peen or “hammer” the MoS2 into the surface of the copper jacket, where it couldn’t be wiped off in casual handling.

Anyone who has used MoS2 lubricants can imagine what a filthy process this must have been.  I imagine everything, including the operator, got well-coated with the lubricant.  It didn’t help that the inevitable innovators came out of the woodwork with variations on the process (same as with Martin’s other development, “fire lapping”), to announce that 1) Yup, it worked great; 2) It didn’t work worth squat; and 3) Whether it worked or not, the “Moly” got pressed into my bore, it couldn’t be cleaned out, and the nitrogen oxides of the powder combustion oxidized it to sulfuric acid which ate the rifling.

Martin was a careful experimenter who showed all his data and procedures, but it seems the advantages didn’t justify the effort for most people.  Sort of like Elmer Keith’s experiments in “forward ignition” of powder charges.

The new coatings are baked on enamel, providing an analogue to a plated “jacket” on a cast bullet.  High velocities (for cast bullets) are possible, but nobody has figured out how to make the coating thickness as even as a bullet jacket, so it’s OK for pistols but not optimal in rifles, where it would really help. Much like other schemes to “shoot cast bullets HOT!,” only a few report success, and the threads containing such reports On Line are rife with contumely.

The chosen few seemed to do well with such innovations, but I recall there was a master spoiler who worked for Sierra, testing their bullets out of four different barrels to find the accuracy typical for the average customer.  He sometimes tested the new developments if he had time available, and most of the touted advantages vanished when his results were published.  IIRC, he tested the moly bullets, and neither the advantages nor the disadvantages were evident.

We used moly years ago to coat our bullets.

Until we found out it can create a carbide on your barrel surface if moisture is present.

A fellow arrived at the range on a cold humid foggy morning not realizing a film of moisture had condensed  on the inside of his barrel.

The metal friction of moly with moisture formed a carbide layer inside his barrel that was impossible to remove and it totally destroyed the accuracy of his barrel.

After that we all discontinued using moly to coat our bullets because replacing barrels was not affordable.

I do have a pound of Molybdenum Disulphide powder left over if anyone wants it to learn the hard way.

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A sonic cleaner with a table spoon Lemi Shine will take off the Moly.
I shoot the powder coated bullets in a 30 BR...using my suppressor. Very quiet practice at the house out to my 150 yd backer