I decided that I hate all of the balances sold for reloading.  I still use and love my old balance beam style reloading scale, but all of the electronic ones suck.  I play a Chemist at work during the day, and have had a lot of exposure to some very nice electronic balances over the years.  I use a Metler-Toledo analytical balance (accurate to 0.00005g or 0.0008 grains) for weighing bullets.  It cost the company about $3k and was worth every penny.  The boss chuckles when he sees me sorting bullets. 

Here’s the thing about sensitive electronic balances.
1) They don’t like to move.  Ever.   
2) Air currents are bad for accuracy and precision 
3) They don’t like vibrations
4) They don’t like to be turned off
5) The need to sit level
6) They need periodic recalibration
7) You get what you pay for

In the lab, all of the analytical balances sit on big marble or granite tables.  The tables are heavy, so they dampen vibrations.  The tables have an enclosure around the balance to help with air currents, and they sit in a part of the room where the HVAC doesn’t blow directly on them.  They get daily calibration checks and quarterly factory service calls.  The service calls are a bit excessive for home use, but the daily checks are not.

Very few reloaders are willing to spend the $500 and up for a decent balance.  They expect that $100 one to perform, or worse, they expect the $24.95 one to perform.  They also don’t want to dedicate a table with a cheap granite surface plate and an enclosure to solve most of the common issues.  Worst of all, they get cheap with electricity and turn off the electronics after using it.

At home I used to have a 30 year old surplus Metler-Toledo that measures to 0.001g (0.015 grains).  I had to do math to convert to grains for reloading.  Unfortunately it finally gave up the ghost while moving to Missouri.  It will get replaced with another surplus bench top balance when I find one.

Bottom line on advice.  A scientific balance is better than a reloading balance.  You get what you pay for, so get ready to pay.  You can solve a lot of the common “problems” by putting the balance in the right place, and treating it right.  The drawback is that you aren’t likely to find the same quality if it reads in grains or ounces.

An analytical balance is definitely “better” than the run-of-the-mill reloading balance in terms of precision (and accuracy, if the calibration is kept up to date).  But if the OP is disinclined to weigh out 100 powder charges to 0.1 gr on a reloading balance, he is not going to be happy trying to weigh them out to 0.0008 gr on an analytical balance, electronic or otherwise.  It takes a fair amount of practice and technique to even approach the speed at which one can weigh on a conventional beam balance, and whether this four-decimal precision is going to make the difference between first and second place on a target is arguable, given all the other factors involved.

I have an old Dillon electronic scale that is fine for checking powder measure settings and weighing bullets, but no good for “trickling up” the last 0.1 gr.  It will sit on a reading and then jump 0.3 gr.  Fine for getting close with black powder charges, which I “semi-weigh” to +/- 0.5 gr.

The electronic scale on my RCBS Chargemaster is newer, and will dispense and “trickle up” accurately to +/- 0.1 gr of smokeless.  It does not save me any time over a beam balance and trickling from a scoop, just the labor of doing so.  Everything stops until I hear that annoying “Beeep!” summoning me to pour the charge into a case and start the next charge going.

If you want speed, set your powder measure and be confident in your technique.  If you want accuracy, you’ll have to put in the time and effort, whether analog or digital instrumentation is being used.

My wife retired as a chemist and metallographer in a couple of Aerospace labs and like GunBum says you generally can’t afford precision lab grade balances but if you follow lab auctions they come up all the time and can be snapped up for short money frequently. Names like Mettler, Denver Intruments and Ohaus are worth looking for if you need that kind of precision. Most are domed since even a mouse fart at fifty feet will register. Many of the older electronic scales reportedly had problems if plugged into a circuit with old fluorescent lights but those old T type fixtures aren’t as common these days. 

I have two electronic balances both of which drift and must be re-calibrated regularly. I don’t trust them so I load with my old Ohaus-RCBS model 304 and with a good throw, and practiced handle techniques for stick, ball or spherical I only check every five or more loads on the scale depending on the powder.

Rick

Agree with the other guys, I use my beam balance first to confirm measure settings, then to confirm my run of thrown charges are constant. Typically 10 throws hitting the mark exactly. Then to throwing all, check weighing anything that did not feel “right” Does not take long to identify inconsistent handle operation &  correct technique.

Have no confidence in ultra sensitive consumer grade Chinese electronic scales. Lyman Beam Balance confirmed with set of check weights, charges thrown in Harrell’s or if stick powder Belding  & Mull my choice. 

Fast and reliable. Thought about one of the more expensive Oahus beam balances but check weights don’t lie & have never caught the Lyman out.

Boats

Ohaus 304 Dial-a-Grain.