My set trigger seems hard to set,is there any adjustment. Once it is set it works fine,maybe they are all that way. My other rifle,Pedersoli seems very easy to set????   Thanks   AO3

To correctly adjust the front set trigger back off the adjustment screw between the two of them. Now set the back back trigger and turn the adjustment screw back in and you can now see the front trigger starting to move back. Eventually it will set it off and then just back off the screw an 1/8 of a turn and see if it will still set. If not just back off the screw just a wee bit more until it does.

You are very welcome Sir!
I was just trying to be able to somehow help you out based on my own personal experience with having the same.

a03,
Your question today was well timed.  I recently acquired a CPA .22 RF for my wife to use and it had the same issue with the cocking trigger.  As John mentioned, I thought I'd be breaking it off!
We just had the CPA out yesterday and all was good except for the cocking trigger.  I have to give my wife credit as she soldiered on, but I could tell her struggling with the trigger made the outing less than pleasant.

John; your instructions were spot on.  Loosened the trigger spring and at the same time adjusted the main spring and trigger settings.  All works as it should now.
One suggestion: I had the main spring retaining screw on the CPA I use come loose once and couldn't fire the rifle. It was an easy fix once the stock was removed.  To eliminate that from happening again, I put a dab of Blue Loctite on the threads.  With the cocking trigger spring screw loosened to reduce the load, I was concerned this may happen with that fastener and likewise added a little Loctite dab to keep it in place.
Thanks to both of you!
Mike.

I have also found there is an accuracy sweet spot when adjusting the hammer spring tension that you might also want to try doing. 
If memory serves me right I believe it is 40Rod who has also discovered the same thing.   
I personally believe it has to do ignition but I could also be wrong but I did find there was a big benefit in finding just where that spot was for my own CPA.

Mike by chance does it also have a through bolt?
If not I have had the same type of problem in the past and I cured it by using two of the CPA flat springs on the sear block and the problem was solved. 

Just an FYI guys.  If you leave the screw loose you will risk the sear spring working off the side of the sear, probably rendering the gun unshootable because the sear will not engage the hammer consistently.  The top spring of the two is the sear spring.  I think a better solution would be one of two ways.  First, but would be my last resort, stone down the small bump on the spring where it engages the set trigger.  This would do the same thing as loosing the screw.  Second and better option, remove the springs and add shims under the bottom spring (but not under the full length of the spring, just the head end).  The lower spring is the set trigger spring.  These could be metal or paper, add until the pressure is just eased off, no more. Again, accomplishes the samething as loosening the screw.  There is a third method but it would involve annealing, bending, and reheat treating the spring.  Unless you are completely  familiar with this I would not try it.

4570mike, if the front retaining screw on your trigger assembly has screw head on one side of the frame and the thread end on the other then it has a through bolt.  The rear has to have a screw on each side of the frame.  What John is referring to is…that if the through bolt on some guns is too tight it can cause the sear to hang up or be sticky.  From my experience it usually cause problems with cocking because the sear will not or can not engage the hammer notch.

Yes, there is a balancing required on the trigger design.  As you found out, too light of a set trigger spring will not trip the sear hard enough to get it out of the hammer notch.  Too strong or made incorrectly can cause the sear to not engage the hammer because it puts pressure up on the sear and holding the sear out of the hammer notch.

This not a complicated trigger assembly, just have understand it and make minor adjustment so it work properly.
Good luck guys.
Bob

Thanks, Bob.  The photos and your description are very helpful.

The problem I am having , however, occurs when I cock the hammer, set the cocking trigger then pull the firing trigger.  The cocking trigger "snaps" but it does not release the hammer.  If I pull on the firing trigger, the hammer will fall, but the pressure required to do so seems to be excessive.

I see what was meant about the thru bolt (screw), but I haven't adjusted that at all.  Actually, I have done all the adjustments without removing the floor plate from the receiver.  I'm thinking maybe I should and see if something (dirt, etc) is causing the problem.  I bought this rifle used and I'm not sure if the innards are clean 

Onward..........

Mike.