As I'm just about to get back into paper patching (and reinventing the wheel) I just thought I would check if the bullet I intend to use is suitable in a 16-1 twist barrel.
The details of the bullet are as follows.
BACO mould #JIM392425
Bullet Dia .392"
Length 1.470"
Weight, when cast in my 22-1 alloy, is 416gr
I don't want to spend years experimenting to finally find out that the bullet will never be any good in my barrel.
When patched with 9# onion skin paper the bullet is a perfect slip fit into the muzzle of the rifle.
Mike.

Mick B wrote on Sep 18^th, 2021 at 9:01pm:



Mike, 
To answer these two questions.
To thin down lube I would use Vaseline till you get the hardness you want. My lube when I use it for lube wads is just for large capacity cases like the .50-90, .44-90Bn and the .44-100. The small capacity cases ..45-90 and less I don't use lube under the PP bullets. 
When I use these soft lube (consistency like butter that has been sitting on the counter for several hrs.) wads I use a .012" poster paper wad on the powder with a wad cut from parchment paper to keep the soft lube wad from soaking through and a thick .06" wad under the bullet. The Vaseline does not act like using oil to thin it down and the soft lube will not leach through. The over the powder wads need to fit the inside of the case tight.
The reason for the thin over the powder wad is to get the most heat on the lube wad so it stays in the barrel where it's needed to soften the fouling. This is how I do it when using a blow tube. When you wipe between shots fired, why even use a lube, you just clean it out wiping between shots fired. 

Sofar as the twisted patch tail, this works for the cup based bullets. When the breach loaded rifles came around they changed the hollow based bullets to a cup based bullet. I think they stayed with this thinking the base would expand faster like the mini ball sealing the gas faster. and the twisted tail would protect the thin skirt from damage. The twisted tail even trimmed is death to the accuracy with a flat based bullet.

One of the PPer's who does well in BPCR uses jojoba oil on his finished bullets prior to firing. Another reports success using a thin coating of Imperial Sizing Wax. And a third reports using something called Rooster Jacket or Lube. PP, like any of our loads, takes some effort.

My plan is to try both once I have enough primers to allow testing PP rounds. 415gr 40cal DDEPP to start with. Hoping to find it shoots well to 1000yd once stoked with 70gr or more of Swiss 2F.

Mick,
What was your cleaning routine between shots?  Remember, for PP,  your bore cannot be too clean or too dry...  At least, if you want the best accuracy.

How did the last wet patch and the dry patch look?  Any color beyond a light gray increases the chance of a flyer, IME.  I found that “formulas,” ie, two wets and a dry, two wets, pushed almost through, pulled back and pushed again, and two drys, etc, would eventually get me an “out.”  The barrel can look pretty shiny and still have enough powder fouling in it to throw wild ones.

I used to use two halves of a large patch, cut in two, each half wetted and folded over so four sides could be used, then another half, dry, two sides used.  The first patch would be tossed, the second wet patch used for the first one for the next shot, the dry one wetted and used for the second wet one, and a new half for the new dry one.

The bore looked like all it needed was oiling to be put away, and the dry patch showed only a slight gray streaking at the very worst.  It was a lot of work for a little shooting, but those loads I’d so laboriously put together shot on their own merits, without yet another variable to derange the results.

Once you get a load that definitely shows promise (like your second one, maybe, but I’d try more powder, myself), then you can see what you can get away with switching to wiping formulas.  A lot of people who use formulas in target shooting clean their guns thoroughly between relays, so their procedures work for ten or fifteen shots, but they take no chances pushing things indefinitely.

Or, you can make or get some bore pigs, which carry enough water and are long enough and abrasive enough to loosen the fouling in one slow push through the barrel.  A full-size dry patch following the bore pig basically does the work of the eight wet passes and two drys.

Mike, do you have a false muzzle for your rifle( a removable internally tapered attachment) to start the bullet. If not it is very hard to start them straight and without damaging the base or patch.
Gumpy