Otto, Good looking color casehardening. Wish I had a magic formula to caseharden high wear parts.
Kasenit (or equiv.) works very well on mild steel parts used per directions. Have never worn through it.
Hold the flame on coated parts maybe a little longer than normal, but don’t overheat.
Don’t get carried away on thin parts like the sear nose or hammer notches, as they will get brittle. Everything comes out a gray color
Rockwell test is not reliable on casehardened parts. Thin parts always show harder than thicker parts Point is going through the case and measuring the base material.
Merry Christmas to all!   
Chuck

I think higher temps and longer soak does indeed give a slightly deeper case but only very slight. The penetration will only go so deep no matter how long you soak it or at least that has been my experience. I find higher temps are bad for good color as well. Getting color right to the edge of the screw holes is what I have been pursuing for sometime now. H&H does it but won't tell me how. I suspect they fill the holes with pins and screws before going in the kiln. I was told once by an old blacksmith that the wavy lines were done in a molten cyanide bath and the part had to be lowered in slowly. I have no way to prove or disprove it and others may know the correct answer. ratseye

I want to say that it was Allyn Tedmon who wrote that the striping was caused by the chain conveyor from which the parts were hung to be carried through the bath.  It pulsed up and down due to the sprockets, or ????.