4227 is a good powder for the 32-40 both my 2 32-40 like the 4227 better than the 4759. Ken

I followed Marlinguys instruction and it came out pretty well but have to admit it didn't go in quite so easily. Got it now though! 
Looks like I have a real parts gun as the block numbers don't match the serial number, but on the bright side, they match each other. Don't know how the 38/50 on the extractor fits in. 

I think it was determined that the gallery sight was not original but I do have a question about it. The two pictures should show the difference from where the staff is in its detent and where is should be to approx perpendicular to the barrel. Is there anything I can do to correct what seems to be a possible issue? 
John

The .38-50 on the extractor is the caliber of the gun that extractor came from. Since the rim size is close to a .30-40 Krag, it's likely use made it close enough for your rifle. 

As Krag said, your sight is indeed a Ballard graduated peep in Gallery height staff. It's original to a Ballard, just not what I'd expect to see on a fine schuetzen rifle. The elevation adjustment is not conducive to accurate settings, so usually used for a hunting rifle, not a target rifle. But once it's set to hit center, it will be as accurate as a higher grade tang sight. It's just making precise adjustments that become an issue.
It's far more common for these custom schuetzen rifles to have mixed parts, as the guns used to build them were often of lesser value, so an accumulation of parts from those type guns could end in a nice complete custom rifle. 
If this was a factory schuetzen model, or any original model, the mixture of parts would hurt it's value. But it's so common to find this scenario in custom guns that it doesn't really affect their value. The important part is it's a forged receiver, well fitted, and accurate. If all that holds true, then mismatched parts wont put anyone off.

I've only been breech seating bullets for a few years, so not an expert. I normally start 1/16" ahead of the chamber, or case mouth. 
Powder charges usually need to be increased over fixed cartridges due to the extra case capacity that you get seating the bullet this far out. But I started with fixed data and gradually increased it until I got the results I wanted.
You can breech seat with a inexpensive push seater like the old Ideal styles, or buy a mechanical seater that gives you a leverage advantage, and makes seating much easier, and more accurate too. Ballard rifles create some issues as far as which seaters work well, and often back in the late 1800's gunsmiths attached a pin to the side of the receivers to hook a breech seater to, and that's not something I care to add.
I've got 4 different styles of tools I use, and some work excellent, while a couple work OK, but get tiresome after a short time.
A stepped bullet, or tapered bullet, makes breech seating much easier, and they shoot really well also.

This is my Cleave breech seater:

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This one is either a Glen Goerzen, or Bud Barnes tool:

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This is one I make for myself:

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This is an Ideal push seater at the bottom in this pic:

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I just looked on ebay and saw this book, dated 1906, for sale at $15.95 with several available. It really is a fun book to read thru. I have no connection with the seller.

You can, of course, put the No. 2's knurled stop nut at either end of the housing.

Bill Lawrence

MrTipUp wrote on Nov 22^nd, 2020 at 11:02am:


Yes, and the #1 doesn't have one at all.