Does anyone use never seize on the mould pins that attach it to the mould handles and also surfaces there that contact the mould?

Not sure if this is strictly necessary or if there is a better lube to use.

I agree with the beeswax.  The way I do it is to have a small can like a tuna can or pet food can with beeswax in it. Keep it next to your pot so it is soft or slightly melted. Use a wooden toothpick and sparingly touch the pins ensuring no wax gets near the cavity.  You can also apply a dot or two to the sprue plate where it attaches to the mold block. Also to the hinge area of the mold handles if needed.  Pope molds have these areas designated to wax so you can't be too far off.

Yep, I bought it.  It may take a month to get here from India though.  This is the only Hoch mold that I have issues with.   

Jack

Everybody seems to be weighing in here, and I have some comments too. Since I'm basically a scrounger, I've used a bunch of old dirty greasy bullet molds, as well as other old junk. The first step is to disassemble the mold, if you can, and then spray it liberally with Easy-Off Oven Cleaner and let it sit for several hours (you might want to do this outside) and if it's really scummy you might want to do it twice. Step two is to use hot water and a plastic brush to wash it out. Step three is to reassemble the mold and heat it up on the stove to dry it. I find that this works really well. Another point is to use a sharp pencil to remove stuff in the cavity, 'cause the pencil lead won't harm the mold and it might even help.     PS, this is for iron molds, I'm not sure if it will work for brass or aluminum molds.

BTT minus the part where some of you went way off track. Please keep on subject.

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