Solution to what BobZ so far I have read looking for a solution to a problem that does not or might not exist depending on which one is currently being talked about?

You really have to be kidding right? and why did you all of a sudden feel the need to jump in just because I asked a legitimate question and didn't have a legitimate answer so please explain the why's and how comes to what ever it was you posted? Not that I would only be the only interested myself but I am sure there might be a few others as well sitting there scratching their heads thinking to themselves what in the hell was that supposed to mean?

Guess I won't criticize anyone who is willing to make the stuff we use in our sport. Buy it or not, but at least it is there if someone wants it. Seen any Jamison in stock lately?

Good information Frank! Enjoyed reading your various materials and methods of lathe turning brass. 
Have a question on the reduced capacity cases internal turning. Did you make a gradual transition from neck diameter inside to the smaller case diameter on cases intended for fixed bullet use? If so you did or didn't, was there any reason to not have a sharp shoulder internally? 
Wondered if a sharp shoulder internally might become a weak spot that could lead to case separation?

Vall,
The most important part of a turned case, is the neck area. That is what seals the case and that's why I only recommend case necks no thicker than .015.

After the case neck, the inside of the case can be any configuration that you want. As for taper, the most taper that I've given my cases is 30 deg, that because of the angle on #4 center drill but, you can make it anything you like but, the more material you take out, the larger the case becomes.

For example, my SS, 30/40 case, had a outside neck of .339 and a inside diameter of .3125. Started with a #4 center drill, reamed 5/16 and finished with the #4 center drill, for the angle to just back of the neck to shoulder junction. I then drilled it 1/4" back to the primer. That creates a 30/40 case of 1.8cc. Nothing else, ever expanded but, just the neck.

I forgot the 270 Win case in my prior list. It's also made of aluminum bronze. For it, I made the interior of the case 17/64 or .265, back to the primer, I made the inside of the neck, .279 (the size of my cast bullet) and adjusted the depth so that it jammed the bullet, into the throat. I guess you could call it simi breech seating it. You could do that with 32/40 or 38/55, making the interior 1/64 to 1/32 (or more) under size of the bullet.

In making rimmed cases, the actual body size, isn't that important, as it will expand to fit the chamber, with the rim, controlling the head space.

A additional advantage of reduced cases, is that they put the powder, more inline with the primer flash.
I like to use 30 deg for the transition from the flash hole to the powder cavity but, you have to be careful with that. It's easiest to do with a long center drill BUT, the center drills small end is to large for the flash hole size on a #3 center drill so, I grind one end off and if you do it like that, again you have to make sure your decapping pin will extend, all the way through.

Lastly, I think bronze is the best material, to make cases. It's much more malleable than brass. My aluminum bronze cases are wonderful but, it's expensive and not that easy to machine, unless you use carbide tools. 

Frank

Vall,
In most of my cases, it's 30 degree. 30 deg per side, that is what the common center drill has and is convenient for me.

On the 270 case, it is a square step, to hold the base of the bullet square but, it doesn't really matter for a breech seated bullet.

Frank

Thanks again Frank!