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Very Hot Topic (More than 25 Replies) cleaning bpcr (Read 14215 times)
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Re: cleaning bpcr
Reply #15 - Dec 6th, 2018 at 5:47am
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Agree all said, only thing I can add is day after I clean I give the bore another wipe with Balstoil. 

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critter68
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Re: cleaning bpcr
Reply #16 - Dec 6th, 2018 at 7:45am
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Several mention nappa water soluable cutting oil.  I have some of this already on hand.   I assume this would be a worthy substitute unless someone chimes in. thanks
  

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40_Rod
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Re: cleaning bpcr
Reply #17 - Dec 6th, 2018 at 9:31am
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You can throw a lot of money at Black Powder shooting if you want to but here are my suggestions.
There is no better solvent for cleaning than Eds Red it was developed at Friendship for Black Powder fouling and I have used it on both Black and Smokeless for about 20 Years now. I use the formula with lanolin. You can make up gallons for a $20.00 investment.
For cleaning cases get yourself a rock polisher its a lot cheaper than a fancy wet cartridge cleaning set up. Use a little bit of Dawn and some stainless steel pins. 

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Schuetzendave
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Re: cleaning bpcr
Reply #18 - Dec 6th, 2018 at 9:54am
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40 Rod:

What do you store your Eds Red in?
Everyone here has the acetone vapourize in the plastic containers they store it in.

I assume you need a metal container with a lid that seals extremely tightly.

Others claim you should not use petroleum products with Black Powder and Ed's Red does contain petroleum products - but others claim this is just an old wives tale.

I have not tried the steel pins because others have advised it peens the case mouths and eventually wrecks the cases.

How are your cases fairing?

Dave
« Last Edit: Dec 6th, 2018 at 12:58pm by Schuetzendave »  
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40_Rod
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Re: cleaning bpcr
Reply #19 - Dec 6th, 2018 at 10:43am
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Dave I keep my Eds Red in a Rum Bottle with a Rubber stopper from the hardware store. 

Cases are fine If you are concerned use ceramic media. 

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Re: cleaning bpcr
Reply #20 - Dec 6th, 2018 at 11:22am
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Dave I switched to steel pins after talking with Dave Gullo about it.  I first used a high speed tumbler made by Lyman and it peened the hell out of my case mouths.  It runs at maybe 100-120 RPM.   I switched to one of the low speed Thumblers that Dave sells and it works very well.  I do get the occasional bit of barely detectable peening on a couple of cases out of a batch but I just clean it up with a chamfering tool.   

Now I just need to figure out what to do with my fancy ultrasonic cleaners as I don't really use them anymore.

Chris.
  
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critter68
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Re: cleaning bpcr
Reply #21 - Dec 6th, 2018 at 1:10pm
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so the word is ss pins peen but the ceramic pins don't ....interesting .   I have a tumbler (Frankford Arsenal) and use the ss but only with bottlenecks so far although i did do one batch of 38/55 which I better check over.  Life is easy with that thing.  Love it.  Don't know if it is slow or fast.  I have no objection to buying some ceramic media for my straight wall cases just curious why in all the rumble tumble the ceramic would be easier on the case mouths than the ss pins. back to an earlier question I had:   I do have that cutting oil pictured in my shop. Will that work for you guys recommending soluble cutting oil?
  

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Schuetzendave
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Re: cleaning bpcr
Reply #22 - Dec 6th, 2018 at 1:27pm
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Chris:

I assume you are referring to the Thumler Low Speed Tumbler:

(You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)

And not one of the Lyman Cyclone rotary tumblers:

(You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)

I am tired of picking out the ceramic media that locks solid and jambes inside my cases.


Dave
« Last Edit: Dec 6th, 2018 at 1:35pm by Schuetzendave »  
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Re: cleaning bpcr
Reply #23 - Dec 6th, 2018 at 1:45pm
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If you're getting ceramic media stuck in the cases, cut down on the amount of media, and add more water.
One pretty matriculate shooter I know said he quit using the stainless pins when he notice brass shavings in the bottom of the tumbler.
  
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Re: cleaning bpcr
Reply #24 - Dec 6th, 2018 at 2:09pm
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Most often refereed to water soluble oils is the NAPA 765-1526 Cutting and grinding oil. Mixed 10-1 water to oil.
As to the water displacing oil I refereed to earlier, any good gun oil should work, I used Break Free in the past and now use Balistol. If your bore is good and dry a light coat of good quality oil will work. 
Sam
  
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Re: cleaning bpcr
Reply #25 - Dec 6th, 2018 at 2:10pm
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Critter, Don't know, never used that particular brand, but probably OK.
Don't know if it is pre-mixed or not. Check the directions.
Wipe some on a piece of clean polished steel. Let it sit and see what happens.
As stated earlier; water does the cleaning, oil just prevents rust.
Chuck
  
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Re: cleaning bpcr
Reply #26 - Dec 6th, 2018 at 2:28pm
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In my BP days, both muzzle loading and cartridge, since I'm a machinist, I used water soluble cutting fluid (not, soluble oil!) for my BP clean up and short term storage.

I didn't start out that way in muzzle loading, I used a bucket of hot water and "pumped" the barrel clean, between shoots. But, almost every time, surface rust would appear after a day or two.

I did always use cutting fluid (20/1) for my patch lube though. At some point, I started using the patch lube to do my finish cleaning, followed by transmission fluid and found NO rust developed after one week, then two weeks and even three weeks, if I went that long w/o shooting a match. I never used that bucket again!

When I got into single shots, I of course used it at the end of the day, followed by straight, transmission fluid and nothing else, until the next match.

When I finally quit shooting muzzle loaders, I stored my rifles, for years that way. I didn't think about it, until a few years ago and got worried, I went back and checked them and absolutely no rust after more than 25 year, in my gun cabinet, inside the house.

The thing about modern water soluble cutting fluid, is that almost all variety's have a rust inhibitor that protect the muli-100's of thousand dollar CNC machines. CNC's are almost totally submerged in there coolant and are not cleaned and surface oiled each day on the bare cast iron tables and other bare, exposed steel surfaces.

It very good stuff and made to prevent rust.

Frank
  

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Re: cleaning bpcr
Reply #27 - Dec 6th, 2018 at 2:33pm
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After a match I run 3 tight fitting patches with Butch's Black Powder Boreshine through my barrel at the range and then one with Gunzilla when I get home. At the range my brass is decapped and dumped into a jug with Dawn and water and given a shake. When I get home the water is dumped and flushed with hot water. The hot water is dumped and the brass goes into an old Midway vibratory with walnut shell that has a little Lyman polishing fluid on it. 3 hours or so and it is done, polished and clean inside. I cannot understand why guys want to mess with wet rotary tumblers and ceramic or SS media. Fouling control is one slightly damp (with NAPA cutting oil/water ~ 1:6) patch pushed through on a nylon brush followed by a quick swab of the chamber.
  
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Re: cleaning bpcr
Reply #28 - Dec 6th, 2018 at 4:09pm
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rather than fiddle with the cutting fluid stuff pictured that i have I just went down to Napa and bought the recommended stuff and they had quarts (rather than gallon which would be a lot of stuff) so all good there.  As I said I need to check the 38/55 brass I cleaned in the tumbler with SS but barring a problem there the only issue I have with the ss pins/tumbler is everyone one of my shooting buddies wants me to clean their brass!! come back from shooting prairie dogs and I am a busy guy Grin
  

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Re: cleaning bpcr
Reply #29 - Dec 7th, 2018 at 7:15am
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Hi guys,

Let me outline my cleaning procedure for comments as to whether I'm doing too little or too much or how I might improve.

First I'll say this: I'm getting my rifles clean, and the bores don't ever rust.  So my mission is accomplished, even if I'm doing too much.

First I pour clean fresh water generously through the bore.  To do this I use a little flower watering pot I stole from my wife and attached a flexible tube to its spout.

Then I shove a few patches through from the breech to muzzle.  About 99% of the fouling is now out.

Next I wet some patches with a solution of water and Murphy's Oil Soap (about 10:1) and run these through the bore.  This will raise a little more residual fouling as seen on my patches.

To extract any possible leading I then wrap a patch soaked with the Murphy's and water with some strands of pure copper taken from a Chore Boy copper scrubbing pad (that's a sexist name for this kitchen utensil!).  I make sure this conglomeration of patch, copper, and solvent is fairly tight and scrub the bore generously.  Usually there is no lead.

I next rinse the bore with another run of clean water to get out any residual Murphy's Soap.

Now I dry the bore with several dry patches.

Finally I swab the bore with one or more patches soaked with Ballistol.

All this is done at the range.  When I get home I store the rifle overnight with its breech open to allow the free flow of air - making doubly sure it's dry.

The next day I swab with another Ballistol patch.

I've never had trouble, but my procedure seems a bit more involved than what I have read above.

One last thing I'll mention:  When I shoot a rifle that doesn't allow access from the breech, such as a Martini-Henry, a Trapdoor Springfield, or a Winchester 1886 I use the above procedure, but for my first patches that remove the gross BP fouling initially, I always use a pull-through.  I don't want to push that back into the chamber or action at all.  I don't start using a rod to clean from the muzzle until I'm sure the bore is 99.9% clean.

Everybody has different methods.  The important thing is to get them clean; and above all, have fun!

Curl
  
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