Well, first off, there are probably just about as many different choices and blends of liquids out there to remove BP fouling as you can shake a stick at. Most do contain water. Some also contain vinegar and that works well also. The stuff I use, you cant get any more so I will not mention it but it is 80% water. 
After shooting I clean the bore with the solvent, wipe the muzzle to remove soot and grease and then use a good quality water displacement oil. There are many on the market. 
You also want to make sure that you remove any leading that may be in the bore as well. Lead away patches seem to work pretty well for doing that for me. 
Once you find a solvent you like, its a simple matter of a few wet patches and then one or 2 dry ones and a good oily patch through the bore, wipe the outside and thats pretty much it. 
I have found that I enjoy cleaning my BP rifles a lot more than I do my smokeless rifles. To  me, they just clean easier and faster, no hard carbon or jacket material to deal with, no nasty solvents, just a few wets, couple of drys and some oil and your done. 
Cleaning the brass is more involved, rinse your deprimed cases, most wet tumble them with either pins or ceramic to remove the residue, dry and then tumble again to shine them up. 
You are going to cuss at that '74 till you find the bullet, lube and charge it really likes and then your gonna love it for ever. A kind of rule of thumb to start loading black is, primer, powder to a height just slightly higher than the base of the seated bullet, a little compression, a wad, a wad of waxed paper (to keep your wad from sticking to the base of the bullet) and your bullet. Shoot that load and then change only one thing at a time till you hit that magic load. 
Sam

i clean with 8-1 water and ballistol  dry bore and lube with a little pure ballistol.  when i fire the next time i dry the chamber but not the bore and fire and wipe with the same cleaning mix   art

Sam really nailed it. You could write a book and not cover the subject as well as he did.
Soluble machine cutting oil mixed 10:1 with water works pretty well
Use the same stuff for most machine cutting and it will not rust steel but removes BP fouling.
Many types available from machine tool suppliers or NAPA. They all work
Wipe with oil when clean.
Chuck

Another Good alternative for bore cleaning BPCRs

1. 2-3 patches wet with Windex with vinegar
2. dry patch thru, then use to wipe muzzle fouling.
3  99% rubbing alcohol patch(removes traces of water
4 dry patch
5. Oil patch.   
And usual wipe down breech, action, etc,
and oil.

Maybe I should ask at this point if there is anything to avoid?   I think I can get the bore clean I am just worried about picking up the rifle a month later and finding the bore a mess.

I use Master Chemical Trim E206, a synthetic machine cutting oil. For 25 years I just got it from the machines at work but when I retired I bought a gallon of the concentrate. It will last me the rest of my life. I mix it 20/1water/oil. The water does the work of removing the black powder residue and the oil prevents after rust. As Sam noted there are lots of products that will work fine. Personally I would avoid any mixture that has peroxide in it. People use all kinds of strange mixtures but remember that nothing works better than water. The soluble oil is only to prevent after rust.

critter68 wrote on Dec 5^th, 2018 at 8:18pm:

So long as you avoid Pyrodex powder, and oil the bore after you finish cleaning you can pick the rifle out of the safe next year and all should be well.
I wipe between shots with a mix of water and Napa cutting oil 7-1, I can go home from a match and 3-4 days later clean and give the bore a good cleaning and all is well..
I like Montana Extreme's Accuracy oil for oiling the bore after cleaning.