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Very Hot Topic (More than 25 Replies) Gun room humidity (Read 11883 times)
svartkruttgris#369
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Re: Gun room humidity
Reply #15 - Aug 27th, 2018 at 4:43pm
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marlinguy wrote on Aug 27th, 2018 at 4:18pm:
Bob,
I've read in recent years of guys putting stocks into those vacuum seal bags and then putting wood sealer of finish into the bag and drawing down a vacuum. The thought is to get the wood finish to penetrate as deep into the wood as possible and hopefully stop the wood from changing due to humidity or temps.
Unsure if it's a proven solution, and I don't know of any scientific testing done to see if this helps or hurts, or doesn't do anything at all.


Don't recollect having heard about this before. However, there is a very well established methodology of pressure impregnation of wood with protective solutions. No idea if that was ever applied to gunstocks.
  
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calledflyer
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Re: Gun room humidity
Reply #16 - Aug 27th, 2018 at 4:51pm
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I have to agree with Gris on the 'baggie' method. Pressure sounds right to put something into wood. Vacuum sounds like it'd remove something, doesn't it to you?
  
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Bill Lawrence
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Re: Gun room humidity
Reply #17 - Aug 27th, 2018 at 4:59pm
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If wood is allowed to repeatedly expand and contract due to changes in temperature and humidity, over time the result is shrinkage.  That's why, for example, table tops made round in the 18th century are now so often measurably oval if not visually so.

So, I wonder, is that why old guns - and even some new ones - are stocked with the wood just a smidgen proud of the metal rather than flush with it?

Bill Lawrence
  
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Bill Lawrence
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Re: Gun room humidity
Reply #18 - Aug 27th, 2018 at 5:12pm
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As for stabilizing wood via vacuum impregnation, it's been successfully done for quite a while now and many turners, knife makers, and other crafters make steady use of stabilized woods.  But strangely that doesn't seem to be true of very many furniture makers; and while I've heard of stabilized stock blanks being offered, like Swartkruttgris, I'm not familiar with any stockers who routinely use them (or at least admit to it).

Bill Lawrence
  
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BP
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Re: Gun room humidity
Reply #19 - Aug 27th, 2018 at 5:21pm
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calledflyer wrote on Aug 27th, 2018 at 4:51pm:
I have to agree with Gris on the 'baggie' method. Pressure sounds right to put something into wood. Vacuum sounds like it'd remove something, doesn't it to you?

Quote:
Pressure-treated wood is wood that has been infused with chemical preservatives to protect the wood from rot and insects. The wood is placed in a depressurized holding tank that removes the air and replaces it with a preservative. The most important thing to understand about this pressure treatment is that the process is, by far, the best way to avoid harmful rot and insects, but does not prevent weathering and corrosion.


A depressurized holding tank sounds sorta like a vacuum tank, doesn't it?
  

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svartkruttgris#369
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Re: Gun room humidity
Reply #20 - Aug 27th, 2018 at 5:51pm
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That "depressurizing" tank sounds like just another method of removing unwanted materials from something/anything before applying the desired treatment. Effective but hardly the "main process"
  
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svartkruttgris#369
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Re: Gun room humidity
Reply #21 - Aug 27th, 2018 at 6:04pm
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Bill Lawrence wrote on Aug 27th, 2018 at 5:12pm:
As for stabilizing wood via vacuum impregnation, it's been successfully done for quite a while now and many turners, knife makers, and other crafters make steady use of stabilized woods.  But strangely that doesn't seem to be true of very many furniture makers; and while I've heard of stabilized stock blanks being offered, like Swartkruttgris, I'm not familiar with any stockers who routinely use them (or at least admit to it).

Bill Lawrence


Bill,

It has been my impression that most "custom" stockers have clients that want the fanciest wood they can afford, purely for appearances. Seems that using stock wood impregnated with preservatives would be outside that mind set. Maybe for military or "rough and ready" all weather stocks, but, not for bragging material. However, some of those laminated stocks may indicate a different mind set.

Furthermore, NOT a single new rifle I have ever bought had any protective coating/finish/etc. applied to the interior of stock. 

I first learned of the advantages of sealing interiors of rifle stocks from Jack O'Conner's articles way back in 1950 or 1960s. This thread is giving me impression that maybe his advice never caught on, at least with ASSRA folks.
  
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Schuetzenmiester
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Re: Gun room humidity
Reply #22 - Aug 27th, 2018 at 7:40pm
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marlinguy wrote on Aug 27th, 2018 at 4:18pm:
Bob,
I've read in recent years of guys putting stocks into those vacuum seal bags and then putting wood sealer of finish into the bag and drawing down a vacuum. The thought is to get the wood finish to penetrate as deep into the wood as possible and hopefully stop the wood from changing due to humidity or temps.
Unsure if it's a proven solution, and I don't know of any scientific testing done to see if this helps or hurts, or doesn't do anything at all.


I have read a little about that on WW sites.  It is normally a resin that they are forcing into the wood to stabilize it.  Usually a piece of burl.  They have varying degrees of success.  Plain old boring straight grain quarter sawn is the most stable.
  

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craigd
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Re: Gun room humidity
Reply #23 - Aug 27th, 2018 at 7:42pm
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svartkruttgris#369 wrote on Aug 27th, 2018 at 6:04pm:
Bill Lawrence wrote on Aug 27th, 2018 at 5:12pm:
As for stabilizing wood via vacuum impregnation, it's been successfully done for quite a while now and many turners, knife makers, and other crafters make steady use of stabilized woods.  But strangely that doesn't seem to be true of very many furniture makers; and while I've heard of stabilized stock blanks being offered, like Swartkruttgris, I'm not familiar with any stockers who routinely use them (or at least admit to it).

Bill Lawrence


Bill,

It has been my impression that most "custom" stockers have clients that want the fanciest wood they can afford, purely for appearances. Seems that using stock wood impregnated with preservatives would be outside that mind set....

Turners and knife makers can and do stabilize the wood that they use and it will generally be very nice to exceptional examples of the wood type, because of the cost of the process and corresponding prices of the finished pieces. My suspicion of why stabilizing hasn't caught on with the gunstock folks is because the wood ends up quite a bit heavier. Not all, but most gunmakers have turned to bedding stocks with various synthetic materials and techniques for stability.
  
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BP
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Re: Gun room humidity
Reply #24 - Aug 27th, 2018 at 7:42pm
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svartkruttgris#369 wrote on Aug 27th, 2018 at 5:51pm:
That "depressurizing" tank sounds like just another method of removing unwanted materials from something/anything before applying the desired treatment. Effective but hardly the "main process"

Grisen,

Do you remember High School Physics class, and the rule  that heat, pressure, and particles, etc, move from an area of high concentration to an area of low concentration?    Wink
  

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Re: Gun room humidity
Reply #25 - Aug 27th, 2018 at 7:47pm
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Schuetzenmiester wrote on Aug 27th, 2018 at 7:40pm:
marlinguy wrote on Aug 27th, 2018 at 4:18pm:
Bob,
I've read in recent years of guys putting stocks into those vacuum seal bags and then putting wood sealer of finish into the bag and drawing down a vacuum. The thought is to get the wood finish to penetrate as deep into the wood as possible and hopefully stop the wood from changing due to humidity or temps.
Unsure if it's a proven solution, and I don't know of any scientific testing done to see if this helps or hurts, or doesn't do anything at all.


I have read a little about that on WW sites.  It is normally a resin that they are forcing into the wood to stabilize it.  Usually a piece of burl.  They have varying degrees of success.  Plain old boring straight grain quarter sawn is the most stable.

Agree, Bob.
More stabilizing material can flow into wood having higher porosity, which usually, but not always, also means wood that has less density to start with.
  

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svartkruttgris#369
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Re: Gun room humidity
Reply #26 - Aug 27th, 2018 at 7:53pm
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BP wrote on Aug 27th, 2018 at 7:42pm:

Do you remember High School Physics class, and the rule  that heat, pressure, and particles, etc, move from an area of high concentration to an area of low concentration?    Wink


And you still need to learn when to apply such over simplified stuff. Roll Eyes
  
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Re: Gun room humidity
Reply #27 - Aug 27th, 2018 at 7:59pm
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svartkruttgris#369 wrote on Aug 27th, 2018 at 7:53pm:
BP wrote on Aug 27th, 2018 at 7:42pm:

Do you remember High School Physics class, and the rule  that heat, pressure, and particles, etc, move from an area of high concentration to an area of low concentration?    Wink


And you still need to learn when to apply such over simplified stuff. Roll Eyes

Same physical process, Grisen, whether you are dealing with the formation of gas vesicles in molten magma approaching the surface, a scuba diver with nitrogen forming bubbles in the blood stream causing the bends, and with so many many other applications... which is why they call it Applied Science.    Grin
  

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svartkruttgris#369
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Re: Gun room humidity
Reply #28 - Aug 27th, 2018 at 8:10pm
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Schuetzenmiester wrote on Aug 27th, 2018 at 7:40pm:
[quote author=64687B6560676E7C70090 link=1533482197/14#14 date=1535401095] 

I have read a little about that on WW sites.  It is normally a resin that they are forcing into the wood to stabilize it.  Usually a piece of burl.  They have varying degrees of success.  Plain old boring straight grain quarter sawn is the most stable.


IF one wants gunstock wood that is least subject to warping, drying out, shrinking, etc., starting with most stable grain patterns is excellent place to start. None of my gunstocks are pretty, most are just nice stable, relatively tight grained wood. Wood on my original Win LW is perhaps the least inherently stable but was well shrunk when I got it, and loose from metal. Complete re-bedding got it to nice stable condition and greatly reduced group sizes with cast bullets. It has proven to be one of those old rifles with ugly bore that still shoots at least some mantled bullets into nice small groups for first 3 to 5 shots. For a turkey rifle that is excellent.
  
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Schuetzenmiester
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Re: Gun room humidity
Reply #29 - Aug 27th, 2018 at 8:19pm
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I can't seem to quote Gris on this phone.

It is not likely one will experience severe, non reversible, non repairable wood changes on a short hunting trip.  Certainly minor changes can occur during a severe short term exposure.   

I once had a .280 Ruger 77 that tracked sideways as the barrel heated shooting 4 or 5 shots.  I tracked it down to a spot of rust on the barrel between the barrel and forearm.  Carrying it through snow covered brush the previous winter was more than it could stand I guess  Grin. It had so much ice and snow packed and frozen between the scope and action it became a single shot  Roll Eyes   

It was not permanently damaged.  Leaving it that way waiting for spring thaw may have yielded a different result.

The basic rules of wood stability is to do the same thing to both sides; ie, plane on side, plane the other. Musical instruments are made of relatively flat material. Gun stocks are out of that catagoery.  Odd shape, fancy grain, one side inletted and the other basically flat.  No amount sealer will absolutely prevent the shrinkage mentioned moving from MN to AZ.  I doubt it was noticeable in less than 6 months or possibly a year.  The differences wood moisture content between different parts of the country is usually less than 4 percent.  The arid SW may be an acception to that.  I am not personally familiar with that area.  I notice some minor changes in our RV woodwork during seasonal changes here in the PNW.  I didn't notice any changes spending 3 weeks in the SW.
  

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