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Very Hot Topic (More than 25 Replies) Stop Ring Bullets (Read 13274 times)
4570mike
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Stop Ring Bullets
Dec 18th, 2017 at 1:23pm
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I'm in the process of acquiring a German Anschutz Schuetzen in 8.15X46R.  The research I've done describes a stop ring bullet that is commonly used with this cartridge.  If I understand the principal of it correctly, the stop ring merely "stops" the bullet as it is inserted in the un-sized case mouth.   Obviously, the stop ring diameter and that of the bullet are matched to the barrel/throat dimensions. 
Since I prep all my cast slugs with a luber/sizer, it's also obvious one can't use that method with a stop ring bullet.
Is anything lost by reloading this case in the normal manner with fixed ammunition and not using stop ring bullets?  I anticipate getting a bullet mold made to drop slugs that will correctly fit the bore. In my 32-40, I use a bore-rider style bullet that gives excellent accuracy, and I'm considering going this route with the Anschutz.
Any one have experience with one of these?
Thank!
Mike.
  
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frnkeore
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Re: Stop Ring Bullets
Reply #1 - Dec 18th, 2017 at 1:58pm
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Like Joe says, you need to get the rifle in your hands, before you can do anything.

The bore is usually marked under the forearm (usually 7.7 or .303) but, the groove has to be measured, it can run anywhere from about .314 to .321. 

The chamber necks and throats are very long and tapered so, you need to know what you have to make your cartridges.

Please come back to us when you know more about it. A chamber cast helps but, it can be done w/o one.

Frank
  

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John Boy
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Re: Stop Ring Bullets
Reply #2 - Dec 18th, 2017 at 2:07pm
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Mike, before you order any bullets or a mold - slug the bore of the rifle. These Schuetzen 8.15x46R bores can be either .316 or .320.  Order the wrong size mold or bullets - sorry!
Buffalo Arms has the 2 different diameter stop ring bullets and molds

If the bore is a 320 - any of the 32-40 non tapered .321 bullets will produce good groups. If the bore is 316 - same goes for the .319 32-40 bullet  Standard weight of the stop ring bullets is 180gr
  
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4570mike
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Re: Stop Ring Bullets
Reply #3 - Dec 18th, 2017 at 2:48pm
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I certainly wouldn't order anything until I slugged the bore. The barrel is marked 7.6 mm which was supposed to be the bore diameter before rifling.
My question was; it is reasonable to load fixed ammo in one of these w/o using SR bullets, but of course using correctly sized conventional slugs?
Thanks for your input,
Mike.


Quote:
Mike, before you order any bullets or a mold - slug the bore of the rifle. These Schuetzen 8.15x46R bores can be either .316 or .320.  Order the wrong size mold or bullets - sorry!
Buffalo Arms has the 2 different diameter stop ring bullets and molds

If the bore is a 320 - any of the 32-40 non tapered .321 bullets will produce good groups. If the bore is 316 - same goes for the .319 32-40 bullet  Standard weight of the stop ring bullets is 180gr

  
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4570mike
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Re: Stop Ring Bullets
Reply #4 - Dec 18th, 2017 at 3:36pm
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Thanks, Joe.  I'll follow your suggestions.
Best,
Mike.

westerner wrote on Dec 18th, 2017 at 2:57pm:
As you pointed out in your post. They used SR bullets. The rifle will most likely shoot most accurate with tapered breech seated bullets or stop ring bullets.  From my experience, modern fixed ammo is not accurate in old German target rifles. Not accurate enough or powerful enough for American competitions.

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing right.  Get a stop ring bullet mold. 


                  Joe.  Smiley

  
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QuestionableMaynard8130
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Re: Stop Ring Bullets
Reply #5 - Dec 18th, 2017 at 6:53pm
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I think that a chamber cast is also quite important. especially if it showed the cares mouth and the beginning of the rifling.
   While the stop-ring certainly keeps and uncrimped bullet from dropping into the case at all I am convinced it also performs another function.

German SR bullets were usually ordered from large bullet swaging firms who provided them in dead soft pure lead.  The old vintage german bullet catalogues list hundreds of various configurations in all the different bore sizes.  One of the things I have noted is that the length of the "stop-ring" band will vary even in bullets that other wise are identical.   

My guess is that the distance from the case mouth of a standard trimmed length case to (or into) the tapering leade into the actual rifling was filled with that band so the bullet was introduced into the rifling without getting canted. It's almost like the beginning of "breech-seating" a bullet, as our American Schuetzen artists perfected if.  I have had moulds made  for a couple my Euro-schuetzens that allow the action of my rifle to force the front edge of the SR into the rifling and the diameter of the SR to fill the grooves. While I have not been able to really shoot them enough in the past few years (for medical reasons) to really test it out.   

ASSRA off-hand shooters of SR bullets out of their GI souvenirs did not have great success with the one or two bullet molds commonly available so they mostly just breech seated their standard bullets in the appropriated bore diameter.  with more folk producing custom made molds for specific rifles more common now.   

These rifles were designed for offhand matches and at a wider (often shorter) range of distances than our standard 200 yards as Joe pointed out.  So shooting them in our bench-rest matches can present problems due to stock design.  and the ubiquitous martini-type actions can be difficult to breech seat bullets in with standard American techniques.
  

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Dales
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Re: Stop Ring Bullets
Reply #6 - Dec 18th, 2017 at 7:34pm
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Mike
You can load fixed ammo with standard 32-40 cast bullets that match your new rifles bore with good results  but in the Euro rifles I have tried the groups where about the same as with stop ring bullets 1 1/4" to 1 1/2".
Loading stop ring bullets is just easier . 
A chamber cast is very important with stop ring bullets as you need to trim your cases so the stop ring is just pushed into the throat to the point that the ring seals and centers the bullet in the bore .
If you do want a stop ring mold NOE has them in stock , I have been using one of their molds with good results .
Dales
  
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John Boy
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Re: Stop Ring Bullets
Reply #7 - Dec 18th, 2017 at 7:48pm
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Quote:
The rifle will most likely shoot most accurate with tapered breech seated bullets or stop ring bullets.
One day at a local 300yd match, I was knocking the center out of the target until cloud cover came in I foolishly changed my settings.  Bullet being used for fixed cartridge in the Aydt was the Hudson 375292 375272 tapered (.372 and .382)
« Last Edit: Dec 18th, 2017 at 10:33pm by »  
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rgchristensen
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Re: Stop Ring Bullets
Reply #8 - Dec 18th, 2017 at 10:12pm
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      One of the German shooting societies recently has a book out treating with the 8.15x46R cartridge, its ancestry, and all of its variants, which are legion.   There are tables of bullet dimensions, cartridge dimensions, anything you want to know, if you can read the German.
     That said, you are getting good advice here -- measure the chamber, leade, and bore, and go from there.  Sulfur is a lot nicer to cast with than Cerrosafe.   It is easier to work with and gives "good enough" measurements.   And if you pour some into a cranny, you can pick it out, instead of heating up the whole rifle to melt it.  The ring should fill the leade ahead of the case-neck, and the nose should maybe just kiss the lands a bit.  The base of the bullet should fill the neck of the fired case.
      I can lube them OK with a die made to go in a Charlie Dell lube pump, as my lube grooves are all behind the ring.
      Don't worry about the diameter being too big -- the best-shooting of my rifles has max bullet diameter of .328, and groove (sic) diameter of .299.
CHRIS
RGChristensen
  
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John Boy
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Re: Stop Ring Bullets
Reply #9 - Dec 18th, 2017 at 10:30pm
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Joe - typo, my  error.  The Ideal 375272.  I was seating them to the 2nd 0.372 band and crimping them on that band. This was before I got my stop ring mold and thought they would work in the Aydt, which they did
  
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marlinguy
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Re: Stop Ring Bullets
Reply #10 - Dec 18th, 2017 at 10:39pm
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I've never used stop ring bullets in my 8.15x46 Aydt schuetzen rifle, and it shoots great without using them. I make my brass from .32 Win. Spl. brass. Mine slugged .317" groove.
  

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Statesrights
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Re: Stop Ring Bullets
Reply #11 - Dec 19th, 2017 at 7:39am
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I’ve got a sweet little JP Sauer in 8.15 and use a stop ring mould from Buffalo Arms. Pan lubed it shoots just fine. Easy to load.  Just finger press the bullet down in the case.
  
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Fred Boulton
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Re: Stop Ring Bullets
Reply #12 - Dec 19th, 2017 at 9:24am
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I have three rifles in 8.15 x 46R; a Buechel Meister Schuetzen rifle, a smaller "field target rifle" with a Nimrod action and a break action hunting rifle. I use a NEI stop ring bullet in all three. All three rifles are accurate with 4227 powder but the Buechel is best with a fairly stiff load of 14.7 grn.
I have both factory RWS and re-formed 30-30 cases and both work equally well. To be able to load without using dies, the brass needs to be segregated as there are small differences in the chamber dimensions. I tried some 32-40 bullets in the Buechel and the 100yd group opened up form 1 to 2 inches. Stop ring is the way to go. Bullets are tumble lubed in liquid alox.
Fred
  
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QuestionableMaynard8130
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Re: Stop Ring Bullets
Reply #13 - Dec 20th, 2017 at 8:51pm
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the aydt action is the easiest to use our "conventional breech seating" with carefully fitted non-SR bullets since it a real simple to use a push seater---its just straight in.   
It's the various martini-type actions that are difficult to make a workable breech seating tool for---that is where a properly fitted and designed SR bullet can really work.

But always these are rifles designed for offhand shooting,  they can be used off the bench but because of the stock design it takes some creative adaptations of bench equipment.

  

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4570mike
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Re: Stop Ring Bullets
Reply #14 - Dec 28th, 2017 at 5:16pm
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Frank,
I was able to slug the bore.  The grove dia measured 0.314";the bore 0.306"+, but that was a bit difficult to get a good reading. This would suggest a grove depth of 0.004" which seems reasonable.
The bottom of the barrel is marked 7.6 mm which would calculate out to 0.2992" or really 0.30".  I read that the 7.6 mm is supposed to be the bore diameter prior to rifling.  Either the rifling process must open the bore a bit or the Germans  were sloppy with their "thou's" ????
Anyways, I'm awaiting the delivery of some reloading components that were a part of the sale; brass, bullets, dies, and a mold.
Fun to mess with something different!
More to come.
Mike.

frnkeore wrote on Dec 18th, 2017 at 1:58pm:
Like Joe says, you need to get the rifle in your hands, before you can do anything.

The bore is usually marked under the forearm (usually 7.7 or .303) but, the groove has to be measured, it can run anywhere from about .314 to .321. 

The chamber necks and throats are very long and tapered so, you need to know what you have to make your cartridges.

Please come back to us when you know more about it. A chamber cast helps but, it can be done w/o one.

Frank

  
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