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Very Hot Topic (More than 25 Replies) Stop Ring Bullets (Read 13295 times)
John Boy
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Re: Stop Ring Bullets
Reply #15 - Dec 28th, 2017 at 5:32pm
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John Boy wrote on Dec 18th, 2017 at 10:30pm:
Joe - typo, my  error.  The Ideal 375272.  I was seating them to the 2nd 0.372 band and crimping them on that band. This was before I got my stop ring mold and thought they would work in the Aydt, which they did

Your Aydt is 38 cal?

Joe, let's just leave it that I was all screwed up on the 18th  Embarrassed
The Aydt is an 8.15 and the bullet was Hudson's 319273 not 272 which I always seem to switch the 273 to 272 and 272 to 273
  
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texasmac
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Re: Stop Ring Bullets
Reply #16 - Dec 28th, 2017 at 6:53pm
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Wondering what a stop-ring bullet is & why anyone would use it I've read this thread a couple of times & I'm still not clear.  Call be dense.

Am I to understand that the throat of a rifle made for SR bullets has an area just in front of the case mouth that has a diameter significantly larger than the groove diameter?  If so, is this area similar to but of larger diameter than what we call freebore in modern throats, which is typically groove diameter or, at most, 1 to 2 thousands over groove diameter?

If my understanding is correct, I would expect the large bullet ring to be squeezed down and spread back (finning) when fired & potentially have a negative effect on accuracy.

I've found examples of SR bullets but nothing on the throat dimensions.  Does anyone have a photo or illustration of a SR chamber & throat?

Wayne
« Last Edit: Dec 28th, 2017 at 6:59pm by texasmac »  

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QuestionableMaynard8130
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Re: Stop Ring Bullets
Reply #17 - Dec 31st, 2017 at 9:51pm
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MY Personal Perception:   basically the outer diameter of the stop ring is the same as the widest point of the groove diameter.  I don't quite understand the technicalities of brass-case mouth "release and spring-back" and the required differences between actual chamber neck/mouth diameter as reamer-cut and the resized (or not) reloaded cartridge.
My mental image is of the SR bullet a sort of heeled-bullet. with the SR totally filling the grooves as a "driving band" with the soft lead "heel" upsetting enough to fill out the bore------remember this all started with in the late BP-tech era.

Length wise the bullet is designed to fit between the leading edge of the case mouth and the beginning of the leade, or a bit more so;  so that there is a crush fit when the action is closed that will press it solidly into the leade.  The German swedged bullets all appear to have been pure lead and I'm assuming that pressures were low enough so that the cases needed no trimming from factory length or if they stretched a mite it would just seat the bullet a bit deeper.

at least this is my understanding of it at this point.
« Last Edit: Jan 1st, 2018 at 11:01pm by QuestionableMaynard8130 »  

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RSW
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Re: Stop Ring Bullets
Reply #18 - Dec 31st, 2017 at 11:55pm
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At this point, I think it's about time to show a stop ring bullet. This is the bullet I use in my Aydt. As the barrel has a long throat, I set back the stop ring so the front bearing band would engage the rifling. It performs reasonably well especially for a rifle I only shoot once a year.
  

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oneatatime
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Re: Stop Ring Bullets
Reply #19 - Jan 1st, 2018 at 12:39am
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For my rifle the stop ring is basically the diameter of the neck of the brass and the other bands are groove diameter which is .316.
  
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Premod70
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Re: Stop Ring Bullets
Reply #20 - Jan 1st, 2018 at 11:53am
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I have no experience with SR type bullets but in my way of thinking the band is a intererence fit between the front of the case and the beginning of the throat, the SR being at or near  the diameter of the chamber, not the groove. The case is just short enough to squeeze the SR band into the throat while the bullet at the back of the base ring is groove diameter and the front/nose of the bullet at or near bore diameter. That way the gas leakage is at a minimum and hopefully the SR can be reduced at entry of the throat without affecting accuracy. I figure I'm wrong but I can't see how the bullet's SR serves any purpose otherwise. Thanks for the corrections when they come, good read so far.
« Last Edit: Jan 1st, 2018 at 1:26pm by Premod70 »  
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yamoon
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Re: Stop Ring Bullets
Reply #21 - Jan 1st, 2018 at 2:58pm
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I can’t resist adding my 2 cents. I discovered German Schuetzen rifles in the early 80s, hung up my 32-40 Hiwall & been shooting them ever since. I have shot many pounds of lead down range. Originally I had Jerry Barnett make a tapered bullet mold for 5 different rifles, made breech seaters and started shooting. I did not have much success. My first try at stop ring was to canuler an 8.15x46 case with a purposely dulled copper tube cutter then fill the canuler with soft solder to prevent it blowing out, then useing a Barnett bullet. The idea worked but no accuracy. Now what has worked for me. I use an NEI stop ring bullet cast 25 to 1, 14.3 gr IMR4227 and Remington 9 1/2 primer. The difference is the brass. I run 30-30 brass run through an 8.15 sizing die, pliminary trim several thousandths long, then fire form. Now the difference, l trim a few thousandths at a time, insert the NEI bullet try to close the action, if my pliminary trim was long enough, the action won’t close. I continue the trim & try until the action closes with effort. In my mind this centers & the bullet and seals the chamber. Try it, it has worked for me.
Thanks Mike
  
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frnkeore
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Re: Stop Ring Bullets
Reply #22 - Jan 1st, 2018 at 3:59pm
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yamoon wrote on Jan 1st, 2018 at 2:58pm:
I can’t resist adding my 2 cents. I discovered German Schuetzen rifles in the early 80s, hung up my 32-40 Hiwall & been shooting them ever since. I have shot many pounds of lead down range. Originally I had Jerry Barnett make a tapered bullet mold for 5 different rifles, made breech seaters and started shooting. I did not have much success. My first try at stop ring was to canuler an 8.15x46 case with a purposely dulled copper tube cutter then fill the canuler with soft solder to prevent it blowing out, then useing a Barnett bullet. The idea worked but no accuracy. Now what has worked for me. I use an NEI stop ring bullet cast 25 to 1, 14.3 gr IMR4227 and Remington 9 1/2 primer. The difference is the brass. I run 30-30 brass run through an 8.15 sizing die, pliminary trim several thousandths long, then fire form. Now the difference, l trim a few thousandths at a time, insert the NEI bullet try to close the action, if my pliminary trim was long enough, the action won’t close. I continue the trim & try until the action closes with effort. In my mind this centers & the bullet and seals the chamber. Try it, it has worked for me.
Thanks Mike


This is approximately how I do it, also.

I use a 32/40 die, w/o the expander and a 30/30 case. That gets rid of the shoulder area, that can be different in every 8.15x46R chamber.

I chamber the formed case and if it doesn't fit, trim it back, by the amount that it sticks out of the chamber. I put 10 gr of Unique in and fill with C of W, cap it off with about 3/16 of old lube (Darr in my case) and fire form it. I then trim it back until the ID is groove diameter ( usually about 1.94 - 1.95 long) for my rifle. The NEI, will also chamber at that length, with thumb pressure.

I also use the NEI SR bullet and can get ~5" 10 shot groups at 200 yards with it. 

The following targets, are all shot in ASSRA (BR) or ISSA (OH) matches, using the NEI SR bullet, accept the 5 shot group, it was shot with a spitzer bullet. The BR targets are BSed  and the OH targets where shot with the SR in the case. The scores are very good for me Smiley

For BR, I have several other bullets that I use and shoot BSed and they will do a lot better.

My load is 12 gr 4227, BSed or from the case. I use pistol primers, mostly but, I can't tell much, if any difference using rifle primers. 4227 doesn't seem to care much about primers, in any case that I use it.

Frank
« Last Edit: Jan 1st, 2018 at 4:07pm by frnkeore »  

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JägerWilhelm
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Re: Stop Ring Bullets
Reply #23 - Jan 1st, 2018 at 4:37pm
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I have 3 8.15x46R rifles: an Aydt, Martini, and a Jung. All have .318 bores. I use a 160gr .321 bullet with a .333 stop ring. 12 grs of 4227 with a pistol primer (the Jung would sometimes misfire with rifle primers.

With all 3 rifles came some reformed brass. .30-30 and .32-40. Had problems in several rifles. Rims too thick to close action, rims not wide enough to extract, etc. So I had to try all the brass and find out which rifle they worked in. Not a big problem. But, I bought over a 100 RWS casings and they work in all 3.

I find shooting with a SR bullet to be a breeze.

  

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texasmac
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Re: Stop Ring Bullets
Reply #24 - Jan 1st, 2018 at 6:39pm
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oneatatime wrote on Jan 1st, 2018 at 12:39am:
For my rifle the stop ring is basically the diameter of the neck of the brass and the other bands are groove diameter which is .316.


JägerWilhelm wrote on Jan 1st, 2018 at 4:37pm:
I have 3 8.15x46R rifles: an Aydt, Martini, and a Jung. All have .318 bores. I use a 160gr .321 bullet with a .333 stop ring.


So, based on the above comments & assuming the case walls are typically 0.010” thick, the diameter of the stop ring is 0.015" to 0.020” larger than the groove diameter of the bore.  Boy, I'd sure like to see what an undamaged bullet looks like after it's fired through the rifle.  Has anyone tried downloading to the point that the bullet just exists the bore & fired a round into soft material to catch it?

I expect someone has made a chamber/throat cast of their stop ring rifle & has an illustration of the chamber/throat.  If so I'd sure like to see what it looks like.

Wayne
  

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JägerWilhelm
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Re: Stop Ring Bullets
Reply #25 - Jan 1st, 2018 at 7:29pm
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Wayne, here is one of my loaded rounds. The stop ring is .333", and the OD of the casing just below the stop ring is .347".

Here is one example of drawing of a round, from the book Chris mentioned in post #11. In fact, he is the gentleman who taught me how to load and shoot these rifles.

I am still digesting the book, as I just picked it up in Germany a few weeks ago.
  

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