Sold for $1400  + ~20%+ shipping and taxes if applicable.   Hope it is going to a good home

I hope so too, I bought it and it arrived today.
It seems to be an honest midrange Creedmoor, according to what I read in Rowes book. 
The barrel, receiver (actually lower tang) forearm and buttstock all match, SN# 5086.
The forearm has a hard rubber tip and the buttplate is also hard rubber, which is correct according to Rowe.
If it was just a shotgun butt, the plate would be metal, Rowe says.
The caliber is marked correctly for a Midrange Creedmoor, 40 x 2 1/2
The wood cleaned up very well, the checkering if fairly smooth though. The buttplate is un-marred.
The trigger return spring was installed on top of, instead of underneath the main spring. (see Pic).
The screw is too long and undersized, but when I assembled it "correctly" it holds. Luckily, the tang hole seems to have good threads and should be ok with the right screw.
The front sight dovetail is butchered, looks like Farkenparker cut it lower to try to make an unknown object that looks like a sight base with a 3/8" dovetail fit. (pics of dovetail and object)
The finish on the rifle isn't as bad as it looks in the zoomed pic.
If you know what that object is, please post.
He also put a 3/8" dovetail in the barrel for what looks like a pre-64 Win 70 rear sight, missing elevator.
Took off the forearm, Parkenfarker kluged a kind of leaf spring to substitute for the missing lever spring.
Pic below of the markings, Rowe says the V&W mean vernier and windgage sights, which is also correct for a Midrange Creedmoor B grade.
I don't know what the S.T. means, but he other markings are the rub. 
The barrel has been re-rifled, probably by EKT & Co, maybe it's 41.
The shiny beautiful rifling is a clone of Pope, left hand, narrow grooves, ETC. I'll try to get a pic. The twist is very slow, round ball slow.
More later, Aaron

Re-Barrel it and set the original barrel aside one could never get another original to the rifle and it might add some future value to the rifle or at a minimum keep it all original it not already having been screwed with. If so no future harm can be done by your choice so then go for what ever your heart might desire.

JLouis

Congrats Aaron,  After hearing your assessment of it I wish I had stayed in the bidding.  Look forward to seeing some Class II scores posted with it.   

-06

I had a bad experience when slugging a bore decades ago using bullets Aaron. Since then I only slug them using pure lead muzzleloader balls. A box is pretty cheap, and once I slug a bore the ball goes back in the box to use in a smaller bore later. Once I use it on something like a .32-40, then it goes in my lead pot to melt down.
The soft lead balls are very easy to slug bores with. I place them on the muzzle and tap them down with a brass hammer. Once they start in a bit, I use a brass punch to get them the rest the way into the bore. Then just tap them out with a cleaning rod and measure.

Looks like the E.K.T. &Co might be Edward K Tryon Jr., pretty famous gunsmith family, and later retailers.
My info is sketchy as to when the stopped the gunmaking and just did retail and marketing, I have a book coming from Cornell that might help.
Aaron

Rebel wrote on Jul 28^th, 2017 at 7:59am:

Get in touch with Tom Klinger, who posts here infrequently. He is outside of Orlando and can likely help, even if only to put you in touch with a good gunsmith/machinist in FL. Great looking Hepburn.