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Expect either a fair amount of experimentation, or, if you are lucky, instant gratification. Read up on the subject. Posts by Brent Danielson, Rick Mulhern, Bruce M, and many others cover a lot of the trials&tribulations of bore-diameter paper patch bullets; Martinibelgian and the late, great Montana Charlie did their work with groove-diameter paper patched. Check here, on the Shiloh site, and the Castboolits site for their writeups. I've only done one stint of groove-diameter paper patch so far, and it was not a howling success, so I will limit my comments to the more successful bore-diameter bullets with black powder. Your paper should be thin, strong and "brittle" like the old erasable-bond typing paper. A lot of people order theirs on line, specifying the pounds per ream and the manufacturer. I go to Walmart and get either Strathmore drawing or Strathmore tracing for thick or thin paper. The tracing is 0.0015" thick, so if you order a custom mould for your gun, a bore-diameter slug should cast at 0.444 or slightly smaller to wrap to 0.450", while you would need something like a 0.451" casting for two wraps to 0.457", if those are your bore and groove diameters. If not, adjust accordingly. I use different thickness papers because I got many of my moulds used, so they are not necessarily a match to my rifle. Ideally, your windage should be mostly filled with the lead slug, with the thinner paper used. I've found a BHN of between 8 and 12 is obligatory. Softer, and the nose slumps, giving a core group with fliers; harder, and the bullet doesn't slug up to the depth of the rifling grooves, giving extreme randomness and leading. If you don't have a hardness tester, a 16:1 lead-to-tin mix is right in there. So far, for me, Swiss 1F is the powder of choice. For my .45-70s, 80 grains works best, with a thin cork wad on top and the bullet seated 1/8" to 3/16" into the case. I full-length size my (annealed) cases, slightly bell them without expanding them, seat the bullet (wrapped dry, I don't dampen the paper when I wrap) and reduce the mouth diameter so it barely grips the end of the bullet. In order of importance: clean and dry bore between shots; alloy hardness; more (Swiss) powder than cartridge specification, heavier bullets (525 gr +); "crackly" thin paper wrapped dry and folded over the base so a circle of lead still shows. You want the patch on the bullet in the bore, and off of it as soon as possible when it clears the muzzle.
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