I have found that it makes a great deal of difference in accuracy if I anneal brass before the first loading and periodically thereafter. I do not have one of those fancy machines and just rotate the piece in my hand in front of a torch until it is red and then immediately drop it into cold water. Of course I have no real consistency using this method. Has anyone ever compared the results (accuracy wise) between using this method and one of the machines?

SS

I made up an  annealing set up using a jelly mould and a pram wheel, but now I just deprime and then dip the case mouths  to be annealed into my lead pot briefly and then quench, very easy.

Like a previous poster mentioned lube the inside of the mouth of the case first so the alloy does not stick to the inside of the case mouth. Hold it upright by the base, insert it to the depth you want to anneal and when it gets to hot to hold drop it on a damp cloth and roll it around until it cools. I tend to think some make it allot harder / scientific than it really is and really quite simple to do. I can also safely say you will never get it to hot unless you happen to have Asbestos fingers.

I noticed the color on 30-06 M-1 fodder years ago and heat cases in a propane plumbers type torch until I get that color holding the case in a gloved hand.  Then dip them in a coffee cup of water and listen to the psffft sound and lean them neck down on a rolled up towel to dry.  Red is too hot.  The important part is not to get the base too hot, but my gloved fingers tell me that.  Very scientific and easy.   I always do old brass and Australian stuff that way.  No problem with cases splitting so far, but I am just a 77 year old kid.  - James

So what temperature would be required to anneal a case?  Would 800F do it?

I just put a steel rod in my battery drill and slide the case over the rod. Then turn it in the torch flame to discolor the brass, not turn it red. Dump it and slip the next case on. Only takes a few seconds per case.