Sold a C. Sharps couple years back to a fellow I know who is a more than competent BP reloader. The rifle always shot very well for me But I believe I only shot it with PPBs/greasecookies/Swiss. He struggled with it and had trouble getting any better than 15 inch groups at 50 yds using BP and lead. Finally sent it back to me so I can find it another home but in the interim I decided to do some testing. First I loaded 10 rds of some 325gr Hornady FTX jacketed bullets with 5744. Shot into one ragged hole at 50 yds. I next loaded some 325gr hard cast bullet with 5744. That created 50 yds groups like my friend experienced.  My next step will be GG bullets and Swiss.

15 inches at 50 yards is probably a bigger problem than the ammo 

SchwarzStock wrote on Jan 25^th, 2017 at 3:00pm:

Same shooter?

Guess I misunderstood.  Thought there might be a good shot and a lesser shot involved  or too much recoil

40_Rod wrote on Jan 26^th, 2017 at 8:30am:


If you don't use antimony how will you get a bullet hard enough to take the lands, not fill the grooves with lead, and prevent the bullet from slumping on ignition?

SS

It's not just hardness you need ductility also. Take one of those things with antimony and crush it in a vice notice how it crumbles and fractures? That’s exactly what the base is doing when you fire them. As far as nose slump you can have the luxury of having them slump after you drop them from the mold as antimony alloys go through a slushy stage and slowly attain full hardness. You can just lay them on their side and the nose will dip.
As far as Linotype and wheel weights, I can find at least 3 different formulas for lino and wheel weights are just pot metal now you have no idea at all what is in them. Use pure tin and pure lead that’s the way to know what you are shooting. 

40 Rod