I applied the "Joe Fix" and turned the pot up to 800 degrees. I poured 25 bullets after the mould was hot. The base on all the bullets was perfect but only five had filled out driving bands. I have some Zud on the way here and am anxious to try that.
Bill

OK, I found the picture of the bullet - one nasty looking:
* The bullet pock marks are an indication that the mold is not clean or there is dross in the melt.  Are you fluxing with what and by stirring the flux to the bottom of the pot to bring all the dross to the top of the melt?
* The rounded groove bands are an indication of too short a pour time and possibly the mold is colder than the melt in the pot ... are you using a thermometer?  If not, buy this one (You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)
* With either a bottom pour or ladle, the spout has to be placed directly into the sprue hole before the pour and then, again ...
* Heat the melt & mold up to a temperature so that with a 5 seconds pour with the spout directly in the sprue hole - the sprue puddle frosts is 8-10 seconds.  When the puddle frosts -cut the sprue

My final step in cleaning a mould is electronic cleaner and a q-tip it leaves no residue. 
I have several moulds that require 800*+ alloy temp 
and at least 20/1 tin to fill out. 
When I pair my ladel to mould rotation speed to fill the mould can make a difference. Try faster and slower fill speed keeping the ladel mated longer.

OK, mold cleaning solution ... I don't care what other brands are on the market, what I have been using close to 10 years is Micro-90, the BEST.  

Ask Montana Charlie who has been using it every since I got mine and several other casters on the Shiloh forum.  It is a concentrated liquid that is mixed 2 fl oz to 100cc water (I use distilled water from the dehumidifier) but I use a 5% solution ... (You need to Login or Register to view media files and links) Read what the stuff can do and leave the item ... "absolutely clean"  Click on Request A Sample link on the page

And for the free sample, order it on line and be sure to use a business name instead of your given name ... (You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)
(Scroll down to bottom of the page)

I run the mold under hot tap water - scrub with a tooth brush - hot water rinse again - scrub the mold, the Micro-90 will create a  foam - final rinse under hot water - wipe dry with a clean paper towel and your ready to heat the mold up. I have absolute nice bullets casting with all of my Ideal handle molds with no vent lines.

And for the good of the order, IMO - all garbage bullets and sprue cuttings go in a tin can until the finish of the casting session.  Never put them back in the pot while casting

Quote:
I clean aluminum - brass & steel molds with Micro-90. It does not remove any bluing or discolor the metal on the molds.  Case coloring?  None of my molds are case colored but would make a large bet it doesn't remove case coloring

40-Rod, I think you just gave me the reason for most of my success coming from casting hot- mold and metal. At least, in comparison to what so many others tell me they do. Most of my molds are just old Ideal ones and sure enough, they do work like for me just like you said. Now I know.

Very interesting read, John Boy.  Thanks for posting the link.  Though I understand the process and the timing of it, being a new caster I find it almost impossible to adhere strictly to those times.  Always seem to have something that makes me change them slightly.  Especially since my bullets seldom just fall out of the mold when I open it......which, of course, requires striking the handles and adding that time to the cycle.  But I'm workin' on getting there.  Thanks again.