It appears to indeed be a #1 Rolling Block, and built from a military action, as it doesn't have the longer lower tang, or extra hole in the lower tang that a Sporting model would have. Of course I'd always check any new gun out completely, and if unfamiliar with it, I'd have a good Rolling Block expert check it. 
One thing to be concerned about any Rolling Block build is the breech block clearance, but also the angle of the block to the back of the barrel! As the pins wear, the clearances and the block angle can increase. If it wasn't corrected during the build, that can create a couple issues. Excess headspace can cause primers to back out. But it can also cause the head of the case too distort, and then the fired case wont chamber in any other orientation than as it was fired. I've seen Rolling Blocks that had too much head space fire cases, and then turn the case 90 degrees, and rechamber, to find out the breech block wouldn't close.
Put a sized, empty case in the chamber, and use a flashlight on the opposite side of the action. Lower the breech block, and hammer. Now pull back on the breech block and look at the clearance between barrel and breech block. If it can move back enough to see an angle, it needs to be worked on. May need new pins, breech block squared, or barrel set back too.
I personally wouldn't blue a Rolling Block receiver. Just looks wrong, as they were case colored originally. I have them annealed, and polish/file the sides, and then have them color cased. It's not that expensive at my gunsmith, and he makes them look correct.
As for the allen screws. I don't care what the reason was for installing them, they'd have to go away! Just way too ugly, and incorrect. Slotted screws aren't any harder to R&R, and looks much nicer.

I'm glad somebody finally got around to the subject of recoil with that round and a pronged butt. For a while there, I thought I was gonna need to mention it. Good luck- and I mean that in the most sincere way.

Even properly "shouldered" with the Swiss buttplate on the upper arm, recoil of a lighter .45-70 load isn't comfortable after about 20 shots. I have a Rigby Ballard in .40-63 Ballard Everlasting, and load are about 1200 fps with a 400 grain cast lead. The first few shots make me think what's the fuss about? Then about 10 shots in I wonder how the oldtimers shot a match with this caliber? By the end of 20 rounds I'm starting to think I must be a wimp, as my upper arm is beginning to fatigue. It's the smile on my face from enjoying the gun that keeps me going after that, but the next day I know why I'm sore!

Main thing is that you are having fun. That is what it is all about. Slug your barrel to get the bore dimensions and go from there. Your bullets may be a little undersized and that may be the cause of the leading. Frank

What a very nice and unique rifle.   There is a very good reason why the big-bore long-range "creed-moor"type rifles were all equipped with shotgun stocks. and you have successfully rediscovered it.

  If t'were me I'd consider acquiring or creating a second buttstock in a creed-moor or shotgun pattern and fit it for use off the bench and "load development".  Since the existing butt is glass-bedded switching the butts back and forth should not be a problem.   sometimes you CAN have your cake and eat it too!
For my first couple years of ASSRA shooting my only single shot was a very light Browning/winchester/Miroku sporting hi-wall in 45-70.  however it has a Badger faster twist barrel for the heavy weight long range bullets.
  It did not have a schuetzen stock and I found that by getting solidly behind the gun with my shoulder, rather than beside it with the butt on my arm made a huge difference in comfort and scores----even with the heavier loads the barrel was designed for.

marlinguy wrote on Nov 20^th, 2016 at 10:42am:

I agree 100%.  That is why I just grin and bear it dealing with a stock like that.  Remember, it is more important to shoot a traditional rifle than to win medals