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Very Hot Topic (More than 25 Replies) fireforming brass (Read 27948 times)
Reverend Al
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Re: fireforming brass
Reply #30 - Aug 26th, 2016 at 4:18pm
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A few more photos that wouldn't fit in my last post ...

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Reverend Al
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Re: fireforming brass
Reply #31 - Aug 26th, 2016 at 4:30pm
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By the way ... I don't know how many of the rest of you do this, but I am gifted a fair bit of "junk" ammo by friends and folks I've met through shooting.  I pull them apart for the salvageable brass and bullets and discard the unknown powder charges, but if they have live primers I carefully decap them and save those primers for these types of fire-forming chores.  It saves me from using any of my stock of new, expensive, and sometimes hard to get primers which can then be saved for use in actual "shooting" ammo.

As I keep telling my Scottish descendant wife: "I'm no' cheap ... I'm just a wee bit thrifty!"
  

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shovel80
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Re: fireforming brass
Reply #32 - Aug 26th, 2016 at 8:22pm
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Reverend Al wrote on Aug 26th, 2016 at 4:30pm:
By the way ... I don't know how many of the rest of you do this, but I am gifted a fair bit of "junk" ammo by friends and folks I've met through shooting.  I pull them apart for the salvageable brass and bullets and discard the unknown powder charges, but if they have live primers I carefully decap them and save those primers for these types of fire-forming chores.  It saves me from using any of my stock of new, expensive, and sometimes hard to get primers which can then be saved for use in actual "shooting" ammo.

As I keep telling my Scottish descendant wife: "I'm no' cheap ... I'm just a wee bit thrifty!"


That's a Good Idea! I just wasted 50 primmers that I took out of some .30-40 Krag Brass......

Terry
  

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Mick B
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Re: fireforming brass
Reply #33 - Sep 1st, 2016 at 9:26am
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My fire forming brass saga continues, this time I used 30 gr of AR2206 and put a bullet in the case for extra back pressure.
The end result was that I had to seat the round with a dowel and a hammer, after firing the cleaning rod was used to get the case out. My original brass that I got from BACO was formed from RP 30-40 Krag brass, this measures exactly .450" just ahead of the rim.  The brass I am trying to form is Norma .303" British, a measurement taken at the same point measures .455", hence the chambering difficulties.
What I was wondering was would it be possible to shorten my FL sizing die to allow the case to be pushed further into the sizing die.
Mike
  
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Chuckster
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Re: fireforming brass
Reply #34 - Sep 1st, 2016 at 11:16am
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Might try a block in place of the shell holder before shortening the die.
Had to do it on a 38-50. Tough to resize the base of a cartridge. 
Most factory cartridges have a straight section near the base. Reamers are usually a straight taper and can be problem.
Chuck 
  
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Mick B
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Re: fireforming brass
Reply #35 - Sep 3rd, 2016 at 6:54am
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Chuckster
With the F/L die I have ( CH 4D three die set ) my Norma .303 case drops in, right to the rim, it can't go in any further at all.
I measured the inside diameter of the die base and it measures almost exactly the same as the case ( .455" ).
I could shorten the die, by say 1/8", and then run the case in again but I'm not sure how much of a taper there is in the F/L die and whether shortening it will give me what I'm looking for. I have another 20 cases head stamped  S & B that are slightly smaller in dia in front of the rim, these will just chamber, with a little force from the lever. After firing it requires the use of a cleaning rod to push out the fired case owing to the somewhat weak Stevens extractor.
I might just cut my losses and get more 40-60 brass from BACO and chalk all this up to experience.
Mike.
  
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Chuckster
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Re: fireforming brass
Reply #36 - Sep 3rd, 2016 at 11:31am
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Mike,
Don't know the answer, but sounds like an overly tight chamber.
Chamber cast might tell the story. .455" is about right for the base of a .303 cartridge.
SAAMI dimensions for max. cartridge and min. chamber which shows the chamber a couple of thousands larger.
Not able to attach SAAMI drawings, maybe someone can.
Chuck
  
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Fazer
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Re: fireforming brass
Reply #37 - Sep 3rd, 2016 at 2:14pm
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In Oz, semolina  is available at Coles or any grocery store. It works.
  
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ireload2
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Re: fireforming brass
Reply #38 - Sep 7th, 2016 at 2:22pm
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The  case full of black powder along with the bullet provides a very different internal force. You are using a propellant that basically carries its own volume of "Cream of Wheat" built into the inefficient burning black powder. The sharp black powder grains tend to grab each other and the case walls creating a bit of obstructive force.  In some situations with a wet chamber or cannelured brass this force will actually tear off the front end of the case.   

SgtDog0311 wrote on Jul 27th, 2016 at 10:32pm:
Great info.  I neglected the cream of wheat when I tried it last.  Just put a wad in the case mouth with some Unique.   

I'd like to share this though because I thought it was interesting even if a departure from fireforming with blanks, so to speak.

I had a bunch of very slightly undersized bullets given to me so I loaded them with a wad at the base thinking (rightly) that it would protect from leading.

They shot great and actually grouped great but when I measured them they changed only the neck where (where they were annealed) but they hadn't touched the diameter down near the base at the web ending.   I took a handful of five and did that 3 times without changing the base diameter to the full chamber diameter.   So I loaded some Black Powder for similar velocity.   One shot!  Fully formed!  Even down by the base where the web tries to hold it's shape.   These were Hornady 405s for a 40-63, so once fireformed the case has a slight bulge right above the web.   Was surprised the reforming was so complete compared to the similar velocity load of nitro.

I'll use cream of wheat next time per he advice here.   

  
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ireload2
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Re: fireforming brass
Reply #39 - Sep 7th, 2016 at 2:31pm
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US made .303 brass is .450 to .452 at the front of the rim. Those are F C, RP and WW.
Some old Norma brass (1970s ammo)  that I have is .455.
PPU brass is .454. 

If you need brass with a smaller head just find some US made ammo if you have to and break it down.  Based on my experience the Federal has the softest necks.  I form it to 6.5X53R Dutch using all the American brands. 

Mick B wrote on Sep 1st, 2016 at 9:26am:
My fire forming brass saga continues, this time I used 30 gr of AR2206 and put a bullet in the case for extra back pressure.
The end result was that I had to seat the round with a dowel and a hammer, after firing the cleaning rod was used to get the case out. My original brass that I got from BACO was formed from RP 30-40 Krag brass, this measures exactly .450" just ahead of the rim.  The brass I am trying to form is Norma .303" British, a measurement taken at the same point measures .455", hence the chambering difficulties.
What I was wondering was would it be possible to shorten my FL sizing die to allow the case to be pushed further into the sizing die.
Mike

  
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butch lambert
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Re: fireforming brass
Reply #40 - Sep 8th, 2016 at 11:14am
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I use a very liberal dose of Bullseye and a paraffin plug. I have formed many thousands of brass. For a lot of cartridges I have fireforming barrels. If I have to expand the necks I wait until after fireforming.
  
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Reverend Al
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Re: fireforming brass
Reply #41 - Nov 20th, 2016 at 9:09pm
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Well, I finally got around to loading some fire-forming loads for my .40-90 Ballard No. 5 Pacific and will try them out tomorrow at our local range.  Using Norma 9.3x74R brass with 6.5 grains of Nitro 100, 1/4 sheet of toilet tissue, case full of bulk cornmeal, and then another 1/4 sheet of tissue to hold it all in place.  This same load worked perfectly in my Lee Enfield .410 Musket to reform .303 British cases so I'm hoping it will work as well in my Ballard.  The Norma 9.3 cases that I sourced seem to be a perfect fit to the extractor and the unformed cases extract just fine.  We'll see what happens after fire-forming though.  I'll report back and let you know how it all worked out.
« Last Edit: Nov 22nd, 2016 at 2:17am by Reverend Al »  

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Bent_Ramrod
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Re: fireforming brass
Reply #42 - Nov 21st, 2016 at 8:41am
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P O Ackley (who knew a thing or two about fire-forming) recommended "good, snappy charges" in order to blow out the case to full size the first firing and avoid the wastage and exasperation that you are experiencing.

It is relatively easy with "improved" capacity cases of the same caliber--all one needs is the standard loading, with bullet, for the unimproved round.  Blowing a case out to a different caliber, or worse, a straight-wall case, especially an obsolete one, is not so straightforward and getting the proper charge in the absence of a bullet is simply a matter of experimentation.

I would recommend that you take your powder measure to the range, with de- and recapper, filler and a sheet of wax.  Start with the powder charge you used to get your shells this far and carefully dial up, one case at a time, until they are blown out fully.  Use that charge to finish up the intermediates and the rest of your cases.  Take good notes so you don't  have to do this over again, at least with this caliber.

Even if it is a blackpowder cartridge, I would go with smokeless powder and a filler, as it is easier and cheaper for this application.  You don't have to clean the not fully formed cases for the next try, and you can dial in whatever pressure you need to get the case formed.

Expect uneven case mouths and a need for a little trimming to even up.  Don't get discouraged.  It took me a couple trips to the dump before I got my .30-30 to .38-55 load down (9 gr Bullseye and Cream of Wheat to top of annealed case, wax wad to hold it in).  I would not expect that load to work in a larger capacity case, like a .303 or .30-40, but it would be a starting point.
  
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Reverend Al
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Re: fireforming brass
Reply #43 - Nov 22nd, 2016 at 3:21pm
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Well it went fairly well yesterday.  I formed 54 rounds in the Ballard and they blew out to .40 about 1/2 way down the cases, but the bottom half of the cases didn't blow out fully.  That can be cured when I load and fire these cases with regular loads and a 400 grain cast lead bullet.  The funny thing is that I also fire-formed 50 rounds of the same forming load to .410 3" brass cases in my .410 O&U shotgun and they formed full length, right down to the base at the rim ... ???  I suspect the next time I form more of these cases in the Ballard that I'll try 7.5 grains of Nitro 100 rather than 6.5 grains.  (Unfortunately loading them at the range is not an option at the moment since some numbskull who was on a previous Board of Directors for our gun club passed a motion that there was to be no reloading of ammunition at our range property.  No idea why they were so concerned about that and I might try to pass a new motion in the near future to change that old, idiotic policy.)  A few slipped past the extractor but all in all I am satisfied with the results using these 9.3x74R cases and they look like they will work well as "shooter" brass in this old girl ...

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marlinguy
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Ballards may be weaker,
but they sure are neater!

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Re: fireforming brass
Reply #44 - Nov 22nd, 2016 at 4:19pm
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Reverend Al wrote on Nov 22nd, 2016 at 3:21pm:
Well it went fairly well yesterday.  I formed 54 rounds in the Ballard and they blew out to .40 about 1/2 way down the cases, but the bottom half of the cases didn't blow out fully.  That can be cured when I load and fire these cases with regular loads and a 400 grain cast lead bullet. 


When I built up cartridges for my Pacific in .40-85 I also used the 9.3x74R cases. But I used various reloading dies to get the case mouth opened up to accept the .410" bullets I loaded. I have a 330 grain mold I use in other Ballard .40's, so I loaded that bullet in the cases. 
Prior to shooting the cases were a little wasp like in the middle, so I knew they'd need to blow out. But I decided to try a charge close to what I'd shoot, and dropped my charge of 2400 powder and seated the bullets. When I fire formed the cases, I tried to shoot as well as I could hold, just to see how they grouped. Surprisingly they kept groups under 3" at 100 yds., so I was pretty pleased to get that during fire forming.
I found I needed to be pretty careful chambering cartridges, or the rim would slip under the extractor. But extracting cases always worked out well, with none slipping off the extractor.
  

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