With regard to the Accurate Molds, they have a 38-250J, 38-300J and 38-315J which they made for me based on the old Saeco  tapered Schuetzen molds. I had good luck with the Saeco but did not always get the diameter I needed, so I ordered the Accurate molds to drop at .382  with 30/1 alloy and they are right on the money. I ordered them with no taper so I can use a lubrisizer. 100% satisfied with Accurate Molds. Joe S

I am sure you adjusted the trigger?? I would think the drop of the hammer would be the same distance for both set and not set. if I had this problem first thing I would do is check on the firing pin length it should come out around 65 thou different rifles have different spec.. another thing that can cause this is head space. you might set the bullet out until the action just closed if that helps it is probably head space. I would not make any changes until I had checked everything out. one more thing is spring strength. weak spring. so many possible solutions to one problem. good luck and please keep us posted as to what you find out.  joe  aka argie1891

Bohemianway,

I just had to address a similar issue on a DST rimfire low wall and found these things to be deficient.  The fly tip was not rotating close enough to the half cock hooks.  The sear was also bumping into the top edge of the fly, as in hitting a shelf rather than just riding up a ramp during hammer fall.  The sear spring in these rifles is about twice as thick and much stiffer than those in original 1885's.  The fly pin was loose and walking out of the hammer.   There was excessive (about .012” total) clearance between the fly pin and the hole in the fly.  I can't say for sure how much of this was a factory problem.  Howie Hamfist had his hands on this rifle and used either a vise grips or pliers on it to turn screws inside the action before I got it.
    
Correcting those five things, one at a time took care of any problems.  By the way, the fly does not need to fully shield the half cock hooks for the DST to function correctly.  In fact, there needs to be enough of a gap for the sear to pick up the fly and shift it out of the way during cocking.  Inertia gained by the fly shoving the sear hooks out of the way during hammer fall will provide some more clearance than you will note by hand cycling.  Only a few thousandths needed to be removed from the stop lip of the fly to increase rotation.  It took very little stoning to remove that "shelf" and turn it into a ramp. 
 
Hope that helps,

Hayface

Wincacher wrote on Apr 15^th, 2016 at 4:05pm:
   
I had one of these. Used finish remover on the wood, finding a nicely grained stock. Rubbed in a very soft stock finish and had many comments about it. Barrel-bore quality was something less than desirable, rebarreling it with a 30" Badger in 45-90 and ended up with a great rifle.

Had the same problem.  Used 0000 steel wool to knock the shine off it.  Then, burnished with a piece of coarse cloth and a few drops of BLO.  Ended up with a "very" fine scratch pattern, but still a much more pleasing finish that doesn't shine like plastic anymore.  Thought about using rubbing compound, but feared loading up the checkering, which unlike yours appears to be laser cut.  Considering stripping and refinishing with oil and repointing when I get some spare time.  

Yeah, spare time!

Hayface