You can if you want a bunch of squashed brass!!
Just put on a little Imperial sizing wax on the case and a little in the die if dry and run them trough, if sizing hard pull the shell down out of the sizer die smear the lube around and turn the case a half turn and run it back in the sizer die a little farther until it is all the way sized.
Hope this helps.
Longdistance1

I would.   I once made 50 .219 Zipper from .30-30, and lost half of 'em on the first firing to splits down the side

[quote author=66545453270 link=1459041937/4#4 date=1459073518]There is a complete difference in annealing and destroying due to over heating.
IF the bras goes to red, you just ruined them. [\end quote]

KAF,

I disagree with you on warming up "bras" but totally agree on annealing the brass. 

I do remember my one experience with fire forming .22 Hornet to .22 K. On my first reload after fire forming, about half of my cases would split at or near the neck. Was using Winchester brass and blamed it on the brass until a fellow shooter/reloader showed me how to anneal the .22K cases. He also told lightly annealing new brass before loading would help. Seems like I sold the K shortly afterward.

For making wildcat cases imperial wax is not a good lubricant. If you buy some anhydrous lanolin and mix some castor oil with it you will get the best case reforming agent available. Pretty cheap if you get it on ebay or the drug store. Works much better.

That is a cool idea!  (pun intended, as always  )  Wish I had known when mom threw away her old bread machine.

Brass will begin to glow a faint orange at about 950 degrees (F). Even if the heating is stopped at a couple of hundred degrees below this temperature, the damage has been done--it will be too soft.

Read understand and follow:

(You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)