My wife found this first link and I could hardly believe it!!!

The one shown in the video is 1000 watts but, they start at 12 watts and we could probably get by with that.


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There is only one draw back. After looking on the site for a while, I wasn't finding a price listed so, I clicked on the "contact us" link and found this:

Please note that unfortunately we DO NOT OFFER our products to private persons.
Our laser systems start at a price of at least 50,000.00 US$ for our low power units.

It's one of those things that, if you have to ask the price, you can't afford it

Come on guy's, someone needs to buy this, I'll volunteer to supply parts to be cleaned

Frank

So, we remove red rust to apply that darker and harder rust we call "bluing", which eventually brakes back down to what we call patina which is the reappearance of red rust.      

Muriatic acid is a lot cheaper, but use it outside and watch the wind and fumes, and your parts.

I'll stick with oil.

       Joe.

Gents,  

When I get hold of something really rusty and want to see what's left of the original surface polish, I let it soak in a saturated solution of common household vinegar and salt.  Pour all the salt that will dissolve into a gallon or two of vinegar.  A little extra salt won't hurt.  When you're sure the solution is saturated (no more salt will dissolve), pour off the liquid into a different container.  A common 4 or 5 gallon plastic pail works well.  Suspend the rusty stuff in that solution and check it every so often to monitor progress.  Warmth speeds up the process, but the heavier the rust buildup, the longer it will take.  Parts will appear ugly, slimy red and or black, as if nothing good is happening, but when ready will easily wipe clean to bare metal while flushing in fresh water.  In most cases, spray rinsing will wash it all away.   Wear rubber gloves or your hands will smell like metal pickles.  (Not good).  If rust remains, throw it back in the bucket for a while longer.  Works on everything I've tried it on with great results.  Never had it do any damage, but I don't leave it soak for days on end without checking on it.  Dry and oil immediately to prevent further rusting.  I've used it on darn near everything, logging chains, hammer heads, axes, cast iron frying pans, tools, including some highly finished, precision machinist tools, fasteners, even little bitty gun parts.   Maybe not as fast, but somewhat cheaper than that laser.
  
Hayface

Any pitting that shows up, was there but filled with rust before you dunked it.  Try it on some rusty junk first to get a feel for it.  Most folks who try it run out of rusty stuff to soak within the first week.  The solution can get really ugly and still work.  I’ve been told there’s nothing toxic, so it’s safe to pour down the drain.  

Gee, with this many ways to remove rust, I ought to move somewhere that it's a problem
Nah, I'll just stay in the dry where not much rust happens.