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Very Hot Topic (More than 25 Replies) Need a little 38-55 help (Read 25740 times)
jy3855
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Re: Need a little 38-55 help
Reply #15 - Dec 25th, 2015 at 9:30am
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SSShooter wrote on Dec 25th, 2015 at 6:54am:
Interesting that thinning the necks on all ready thin cases (Win) and then going to considerably thicker cases (Starline) solved the problem.


Well, the difference in wall thickness isn't as dramatic as I expected, but I just measured wall thickness on a new, unfired Starline long case at .007" and a fired, unsized W-W at .009-.010". I don't have a ball micrometer, so my numbers should shade a bit high, but give a good idea of relative thickness of my brass with dial calipers.

I use the W-W brass in a High Wall with a .375" groove barrel, the Starline long in my 336 Cowboy with a .381" groove, and Starline short in a Winchester 94 with a .379" groove.

Outside neck turning the W-W cases did work for me and allow me to fire bullets closer to groove diameter. Back in 2003 when I was taking that route with the W-W brass, I didn't have a mold that threw a .381" or .382" bullet but was using a Lyman 375449 that threw a .379" bullet.  I was also paper patching a Lyman 366408 9.3mm bullet and using it in the neck turned brass for good accuracy and no leading. Even though the PP bullet was under groove dia. it shot well.
« Last Edit: Dec 25th, 2015 at 9:38am by jy3855 »  
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Re: Need a little 38-55 help
Reply #16 - Dec 25th, 2015 at 9:58am
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Think about it all the case does is hold powder if they are about the same size which one is not important. Very important is the bullet and fit.

Job pre 20th century 38/55's had to do is quite different from single shot target rifles.  Feed through the action, eject unfired cartridges, black powder loads had to work well in dirty bores first shot to last, and most important Black Powder can give very good  results in oversize bores because it bumps the bullet up to bore size on ignition.

That's why I say figure out exactly what the intended use is before settling on a barrel, chamber and bullet. Really it all works backward from required ballistics on target, can't make a good decision until it's settled

Our club offhand 200 yard swinger matches annual results and "Best Shooter" award just finished. 12 matches award is for the best 5 200 shots for record. Over 80  competitors.

Top 4 guns 2 CPA's 1 Original re-barreled High Wall 1 New Marlin Cowboy Lever action.  3 38/55's one 38/50  Guy that shoots the Marlin Cowboy has a CPA sticks with the Marlin to stay in shape for Lever Silhouette matches. He's figured out the brass bullet chamber perfectly. He  bought the gun from a friend of mine that never could get it to shoot & switched to a Mikoro High Wall 38/55

They all work with some tweaking 

Boats
« Last Edit: Dec 25th, 2015 at 10:10am by boats »  
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SSShooter
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Re: Need a little 38-55 help
Reply #17 - Dec 25th, 2015 at 12:12pm
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Have found that the Lee expander die & plugs work well. For my 38cal the 0.379" plug and for the 40cal the 0.410" plug do the trick, regardless of the brass used. Easier than neck turning. For 0.381" you might need a custom plug made up. YMMV.
  

Glenn - Stevens 044 1/2, Bartlein SS 5R barrel in 22LR
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SgtDog0311
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Re: Need a little 38-55 help
Reply #18 - Dec 26th, 2015 at 11:24am
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Well, I looked at the 38-40 and the 35-40.  I guess I find the 35-40 more intriguing of the two even if I’m still leaning towards the 38-55.   

Why do I read in some places that a stainless barrel is recommended?    You might not agree but I’m just wondering why that would be put out there.

Got to admit, having some persistent issues with leading in a 375 I’ve always kind of thought that 12:1 twist was prone to strip lead as it hit the lands.   I’m sure that’s just a once-bitten thing and it could be resolved.      I see where one chamber out there utilizes the short brass while one utilizes the long brass.    Got to admit as you get into the  more exotic old hyphens the 38-55 can sound a little boring.   Still plan on talking with Steve Baldwin but in the mean time I’m firming up reamer specs for the 38-55 so making headway.

Btw… I’ve found the Starline to be thinner wall thickness than the Winchester in my loading.    
  

Best Regards,
John
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Re: Need a little 38-55 help
Reply #19 - Dec 26th, 2015 at 4:53pm
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I have a 38/40 Marlin 1894 use it for Pistol caliber Silhouette. Fine 100 yard Caliber all the years shooting 200 Ram Bash matches our club and up at Fairfax R&G never saw a pistol Calber do well at 200   Same thing NRA lever silhouette pistol calibers are legal in the Rifle Silhoutte match, to 200, they never do well.

My 18 twist 38/55 set up 22 years ago was the norm  do it again  I may go 16, doubt if I would put a 14 twist on a 38/55 but will admit some do well with them, no way would I use a 12.  Spin cast too fast looking for problems.

Plain 38/55 .375 bore .377 bullet chamber length to suit the brass you have has the best chance of turning out well. 18 twist if intending to use bullets under 300 gr 16 if 330's 

Stick with boring let the other guys hot rod, 

Boats
  
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marlinguy
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Ballards may be weaker,
but they sure are neater!

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Re: Need a little 38-55 help
Reply #20 - Dec 26th, 2015 at 7:00pm
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This sounds like the old smallblock Chevy, vs. flathead debate. Guys talking about boring old SBC that everyone has, vs. a flathead Ford, nailhead Buick, or something more interesting! Wink
Seems that some work better, and some are going with an oddball simply because they like something just to be unique, regardless of how much fiddling or special brass and dies it takes to feed it.
I love easy, simple, and cheap; even if it's boring!
  

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Rebel
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Re: Need a little 38-55 help
Reply #21 - Dec 26th, 2015 at 7:31pm
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I like to fiddle. Life is too short for boring.
63 Corvair Greenbrier
63 Riviera (401 Nailhead)
62 Stude GT Hawk R2
57 Desoto Adventurer Hemi
75 MB 450SL
76 Jag XJ6C

I think we all like to fiddle a bit, or we'd be shooting AR's

Q  Why did you put a SBC in your Ford
A   so it would start
Sorry for off-topic reply.
« Last Edit: Dec 26th, 2015 at 7:46pm by Rebel »  

WARNING: This post may contain material offensive to those who lack wit, humor, common sense and supporting factual or anecdotal evidence. Let's Go Sonny!
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SgtDog0311
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Re: Need a little 38-55 help
Reply #22 - Dec 26th, 2015 at 8:00pm
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Great analogy Vall.    You know as well as anybody except maybe Green Lizzard that I bring this stuff on myself.    I ain’t complaining though since I like it and I learn from it every time.

If you’d have said 38-40 to me a couple days ago I’d have thought I knew what your were talking about and thought immediately of Boat’s Marlin, or one like it.   Now I’ve got my eyes open a little wider by fishing on the web for  38-40 Remington Maynard.    

You know I’m pretty sure it was a 35-40 that Mr Crossno showed me in his shop this spring.    And here I am putting SSShooter’s pointers together with that afternoon all because of asking pesky questions.       

Yep, boring is easier.   And I’m still leaning towards boring.   But still got a question or two to satisfy.   Since Mr Baldwin is basing his 35-40 off of 38 brass, I’m thinking that brass would come as easy as a 38-55.   It’s probably what Boats  says about the hot rodding that would be my reservation.    This rifle being what it is, “boring” (as used mostly in jest here) also equates more to what that old gun was produced to do.    Now, if I could find someone shooting a 35-40 with a slower twist and having good accuracy with an interesting bullet weight, something that sort of filled a gap in my mold line-up, say out to 400 yds, with just an 18 twist, that would peak my interest.  Wouldn’t have to knock anything over necessarily.    

If I get enough experience to talk about ringing rams with the rest of these gentlemen, which I hope I do someday, then I bet I’ll be talking about that #6 Schuetzen in 38-50 anyway.  Between that and a 40-65 or 63 I’ll have all I need in front of me - striking out in a new direction as I am.   Whatever this turns out to be it’s gonna be more ‘all purpose’ than any specific shooting goals I have.

My apologies to anyone rolling their eyes…   there are areas and posts in this sport where I have to fight that same reaction but thank goodness there are newcomers arriving all the time.   Else we’d be having trouble impressing a shrinking number of experts on our forums who have already been there/done that.    

Btw... I don't even know what an SBC is:-)
« Last Edit: Dec 26th, 2015 at 11:11pm by SgtDog0311 »  

Best Regards,
John
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SgtDog0311
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Re: Need a little 38-55 help
Reply #23 - Dec 26th, 2015 at 9:13pm
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If anyone enjoys talking reamer/chamber design I got a hypothetical for you.

Take Frank’s PTG reamer drawing.   It shows a .100 cylindrical free bore.    Anyone ever see someone take that free bore cylindrical shape and length and make it conical.    I’m not talking about a flat transition from the case mouth diameter to groove diameter.   Most of us have probably seen those from the vintage chambers that have say a 4* or 6* transition from case mouth diameter to groove diameter. I’m talking about something way more subtle than that.

Modern chambers with free bore (or without) usually have a 45* transition that leads to free bore or, if no free bore, then right into groove diameter.  So instead of that, let’s say you still had the 45* transition at the end of chamber length where the case ends.    

Now say you had a .100 free bore but the 45* transition leading to the free bore tapers instead to a dimension at the start of the free bore just .003 larger than the obderated bullet diameter as it leaves a fire formed case mouth, (that would be .014 smaller than the neck diameter of your chamber) and from there tapers to your groove diameter of say .379.   The shape of that portion of the chamber would no longer fit the definition of a free bore obviously but put that aside for sake of discussion.   That would be a subtle swaging as opposed to the old taper that left however much space for the bullet to obdurate -  as your case wall was thick.     In other words, the old vintage chambers with a flat transition from neck to groove left a lot of room for upset, maybe as much as .020 or more with the older thicker brass,  followed by a lot of swaging back to groove diameter.       

The problem I see with that design is for those wanting to seat your bullets out to accommodate more powder.   Driving bands would arrest somewhere along that cone shape and would restrict forward seating.   In return for that limitation you get a very gradual swaging with very slight obduration before swaging into the groove diameter.    Many contend the less changes your bullet is undergoing the better.   And filling the throat, like they say,  would be something you could design a bullet for.   
  

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John
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Re: Need a little 38-55 help
Reply #24 - Dec 26th, 2015 at 9:51pm
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Now we are back to what the rifle will be used for. If Black Powder 38/55 does not have the case capacity to hold enough powder for long heavy bullets. If Smokless powder it's about right.

No problem with asking the questions.  Different perspectives are interesting .   

BTW.  SBC = Small Block Chevy.  283's best V8 made.

Boats
  
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SgtDog0311
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Re: Need a little 38-55 help
Reply #25 - Dec 27th, 2015 at 11:59am
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frnkeore wrote on Dec 24th, 2015 at 2:44am:
Here is a PT&G drawing for a 2.125 long case. You can change the freebore (.3765 in this drawing) to what ever your groove is, plus .0005 - .001.

Frank


Could be a colossally dumb question here:    Just realized that PTG diagram Frank posted shows no defined neck length.   Appears to be a straight taper all the way to case mouth.    It does indicate a “Resize ND” in the legend of .391.   I'm assuming that neck length is just established during sizing then.    Or could this be a chamber meant strictly for breach seating and there is no need for a defined neck?
  

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John
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Re: Need a little 38-55 help
Reply #26 - Dec 27th, 2015 at 2:04pm
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John,
Here is where things can get complicated and you'll have to possibly, compromise in one way or another and you'll have to know the dimensions of your brass, when a bullet, the size that you'll be using in seated in the brass. That's only one reason that I prefer BSing Smiley

If left as is, and the brass isn't tapered inside, you'll have .0048 taper (in a 3/8 length), inside after sizing and then the inside will have to be sized by a expander and things will match, pretty well.

If your brass has parallel walls, as above, in the area that the bullet seats, your good to go and just order the reamer with a straight neck for that distance. Or .001 taper per inch in that area, to make sure that the brass releases well from the camber.

If the brass is tapered in the neck area that you'll be using to seat your bullet, you can order as above and neck turn.

If you don't want to neck turn, you'll have to try to match the taper and use a expander to size the ID of the case, for you bullet diameter. 

If you call and talk to the reamer maker, they'll now what your talking about and help you.

Frank
« Last Edit: Dec 27th, 2015 at 2:18pm by frnkeore »  

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SgtDog0311
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Re: Need a little 38-55 help
Reply #27 - Dec 27th, 2015 at 11:45pm
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Thanks Frank.    I would have had a harder time following all that but I struggled through it recently while drawing up a reamer for a 40-65 Ballard.   First I’d read on it was in some of TexasMac’s observations on the Browning chamber.    That chamber has a defined neck that is .500 long if I remember right.    Read a good thread where he and others were talking about your point, the question being:  If you have a true cylinder inside, then you won’t on the outside… and vise versa.    When deciding on specs for that reamer I called Starline to see what the taper in wall thickness was for their 45-70 (plan on forming that to 40-65) and Hunter I think it was pulled their drawings up just to be sure and told me their 45-70 specs showed taper only up to the case neck, after which the thickness was uniform.   Hope that’s the case or I could be tight where the base of the bullet is seated.   I’m prepared to turn necks there if I confront that.   

In the PTG case I was surprised though.   Most diagrams I see show two diameters… one at the case mouth and another roughly ½” back from there, generally .001 larger at the start of the neck.    

Interesting that the fire formed cases that come out of my Marlin 1895 in 40-65 are also close to not having a defined cylindrical neck.     It does turn into a cylinder in the last quarter inch.    Otherwise, it’s a straight line taper but for the last .250 where you could measure the start of a short defined neck. 

I guess I better check the brass I have for the 38-55.  I know it’s thinner but I don’t know about the thickness taper.   I think in this case I'll build that .001 fudge factor in at the base regardless of what Starline might say or show   
  

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John
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Re: Need a little 38-55 help
Reply #28 - Dec 28th, 2015 at 7:45am
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SgtDog0311 wrote on Dec 23rd, 2015 at 11:22pm:
I've got a Ballard Perfection in for reline.  It goes just over 8lbs, so not a heavy rifle.   TJ liners come .379 and 18 twist or .375 at 14 twist.   I know the competitive shooters are using faster twists but I’m thinking the former might be a better fit for an 8lb rifle.

A slower twist will lock you in to lighter bullets. The faster twist will not be a detriment to light bullets and makes the rifle more flexible in what can be used for loads. 

SgtDog0311 wrote on Dec 23rd, 2015 at 11:22pm:
I’d like to try some Paper Patch too.

Not sure how many folks are PP'g here. You might want to ask in the BP forum on the Shiloh Sharps forum, which is primarily BP and has any number of PPer's. Think it is BFD (Brent Daniels) who may be the one over there to ask, though I don't recall anyone PP'g a 38cal, or even a 40cal.
  

Glenn - Stevens 044 1/2, Bartlein SS 5R barrel in 22LR
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Re: Need a little 38-55 help
Reply #29 - Dec 28th, 2015 at 4:33pm
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Well, I do like the thought of the 35-40 Maynard now that its been thrown out there.   I've been guilty of jumping on the bandwagon before and not always with good results but with a string of lessons-learned to be sure.   Won't be much backing up from that one though. 

I talked with Sayers at TJ's and with Steve Baldwin.   Verdict is still out but I might be taking another fork in the road if some information comes back favorable.

Btw... SSShooter, I have done a little pp'ing in the 40 caliber.   Never had a chamber set up specific for it.   Ideally I think I'd want a neck diameter that only allowed for a bore size patched bullet.    When I first dove in there, which wasn't a very deep dive, I was wondering why the stock 40 caliber sizing dies pushed that neck all the way down to .422 when most necks were fire-forming out to over .430.   Dawned on me that they were trying to make their sizers a do-all affair.   And turns out .422 is a perfect fit for a patched bullet for bore size in a 40 caliber.   But the serious patchers like Brent are cutting their chamber for a tight fit, so that precludes gg bullets sized to groove diameter.   

And people wonder why the old bores won't chamber groove size bullets.    Logical explanation would be that most shooters back in the day were shooting patch.   

  

Best Regards,
John
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