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RoyB
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Converting LEE mold to PaperPatch ???
Mar 14th, 2015 at 8:40am
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It looks to me that we could buy inexpensive LEE aluminum molds and rebore to whatever size we need for a smooth side paper patch bullet.

I have a great reloading store that recently opened here in town that stocks everything in the LEE catalog (NICE!).

I'm going to pick up a .338 mold and bore it out to .375 for my C Sharps in 38-55. This should make a bullet of about 280g if my math is correct. If I want a longer bullet of 330g I could use the 309-230 mold which is a big long bullet for the 30 caliber rifles.

Not sure if I'm just going to use a small boring bar with a radiused tip or if I'll make a "cherry" type of cutter.

Has anyone else attempted this?
  

Roy B
Dartmouth, MA
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Chuckster
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Re: Converting LEE mold to PaperPatch ???
Reply #1 - Mar 14th, 2015 at 10:35am
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Have used a small boring bar to size the cylinder portion and then a "D-Bit" type reamer to form the nose. Reamer made from drill rod and hardened. Seemed to work.
Chuck

P.S. With a little extra work, you can make it nose pour and an adjustable plug in the bottom to vary the weight if desired.
« Last Edit: Mar 14th, 2015 at 10:51am by Chuckster »  
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nuclearcricket
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Re: Converting LEE mold to PaperPatch ???
Reply #2 - Mar 14th, 2015 at 10:38am
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Roy, I sort of attempted to do what our planning. At the time I have access to a full machine shop so I made up my own blocks and made a nose pour mold. I cut the cavity in a lathe. I ground up a lathe tool with the nose radius on the tool and relief the rest of the way back. All in all it didn't turn out too bad.
If I were to make a suggestion to you, I would suggest you go with the longer 309 blocks. You can always shorten the top of the blocks if the bullet is too long. Very hard to get a longer bullet out of short blocks. 
Also make sure that the top surface of your mold is squared up in the chuck jaws as well as the mole bore. I fund out the hard way that the mold can get in there a little out of square and that just isn't a good thing. 
Sam
  
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QuestionableMaynard8130
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Re: Converting LEE mold to PaperPatch ???
Reply #3 - Mar 14th, 2015 at 1:53pm
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how hard is it to get a good finish on the softer AL of the lee blocks?    I have a couple 2 cavity special design "group-buy" Lee molds that need to have the gas-check ring removed.
  

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RoyB
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Re: Converting LEE mold to PaperPatch ???
Reply #4 - Mar 14th, 2015 at 4:17pm
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I went to the reloading store and bought two, two cavity molds....Both for the 308 caliber bullets. Both long enough to make a 300+ g bullet

I needed to remove them from the included handle....Good luck with that! They must glue the allen heads that hold the blocks. I had to drill them out and then re-tap.

I needed to remove the spru plate. Couldn't turn the screw for love of Pete. Broke the head off, put it in the milling machine to drill it out and discovered that it is a left handed thread!! No big deal. the broken off piece came right out and I retapped it for a RH bolt and added a set screw on the side to lock it in place.

I had a bunch of other machine prototype work sitting on the bench that I had to finish so making the D-Bit and recutting the mold will need to wait a day or so.
  

Roy B
Dartmouth, MA
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nuclearcricket
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Re: Converting LEE mold to PaperPatch ???
Reply #5 - Mar 14th, 2015 at 9:38pm
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QM, it shouldn't be hard to get a good finish on the aluminum blocks. I am not sure what aluminum Lee uses but I would guess that  its 2024 or 6066 and either will give good finish with a nice sharp tool. If you look at the thread in the gunsmithing area on the Lyman Lock Rings, those are made of 6066-T6 and the finish on them is all machine, there was no polishing done at all. 
Sam
  
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westerner
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Re: Converting LEE mold to PaperPatch ???
Reply #6 - Mar 14th, 2015 at 10:48pm
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A couple picket cavities I bored in Lee blank blocks. 

Lee aluminium blocks cut butter smooth. No buildup on the cutter. 

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      Joe.
« Last Edit: Mar 15th, 2015 at 7:25am by westerner »  

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