After rendering 360 lbs of lead as discussed and pictured in a very recent thread, the cast iron pot was left with a thin layer of lead at the bottom that could not be removed with a sharp scraper or steel wool.  Over the years I had run across many threads suggesting that a 50/50 solution of hydrogen peroxide and vinegar, common items in most households, would remove lead from firearm bores.  I had researched the subject to some extent and found that the solution results in paracetic acid, a corrosive agent known to etch iron and steel in strong concentrations.

But now the leaded pot was the ideal test sample for a lead cleaning test with the solution.  I took it a step further as detailed below.  So, after scraping the heavier layers of lead and crud out of the bottom of the pot, I scrubbed it with steel wool.  A splotchy thin layer of lead remained, filling the pores and covering most of the bottom.  Next I poured in a pint of 3% hydrogen peroxide and a pint of 5% acidic vinegar.  Within a few minutes the solution started turning rust red.  In about an hour approximately 75% of the lead was gone and the solution seemed to have stopped working.  So I dumped out the old solution, wiped the residue out of the bottom of the pot and added a fresh solution of equal parts hydrogen peroxide and vinegar.  As before, the solution started to turn rust red but within 15 minutes all the remaining lead was gone.

Based on the results it was clear to me the paracetic acid was not only dissolving the lead but consuming the surface layer of the iron by turning it into iron oxide (rust), hence the deep rust red coloration of the solution.  It was also clear that, based on the strength of the ingredients the acid only lasted so long as it was used up in the process of dissolving the lead and creating iron oxide.  Since the solution was clearly etching the iron my next step was to figure out some way to quantify the rate of etching.

See next post
Wayne

I guess that settles THAT.

Wayne,

It does seem to work very well. I agree about the possibility of etching the bore in addition to how it will affect accuracy. I've used vinegar in the past to finish knives and muzzle loader barrels. It gives them a nice aged patina look. Very pleasing on a flintlock longrifle barrel.

Bob

Quote:

And it works well for roughening up the surface of old worn knife sharping steels to restore their usefulness.

Use it in my barrel???  Never!!! Of course I've never had a leading problem using Javelina Schuetzen Lube. 

JerryH

JerryH wrote on Mar 14^th, 2015 at 11:50pm:


That Javalina is THE Stuff!!

Terry

rkaires wrote on Mar 14^th, 2015 at 8:20am:


I use sal ammoniac and copper sulphate for browning old barrels (and new blades). I'll play with the vinegar sometime...

--
Aonghas

Sooo,  I have an old cap lock (150yrs plus)that had numerous repair's (solder) done to its internal parts !!!  Is this a way to clean them off without heat for a proper Tig welding job ???  TIA....

Redwing !!!