Redwing wrote on Mar 19
th, 2015 at 10:58am:
Hi Alonghas !!!
I'm aware that TIG was not invented during the repair to the internal failure's and so they are not visible once assembled !!! My attempt to return this old guy to a working condition... The break's are impossible to clean and this sound's like a method I could use !!!
This is unique Boy's Rifle that is an in-line Cap-Lock M/L with "Flobert" furniture that the late Turner Kirkland (DGW) and I had many conversation's about... So, I would like it working again !!!
Thank's for your imput.....
Redwing....
Be careful what you weld, and the material you use to do it with - some cast steels cannot be properly welded with ordinary mild steel rods/wire.
Cast iron, for instance, should only be welded using cast iron rods, or joined by brazing or 'welding' with nickel.
If the gun is of any value (monetary or interest) it might pay to have an assay done on the metal to be repaired, and a really competent welder will reccomend the grade of rod or wire to do the job.
If you haven't tried draw-filing, this is the favourite method of hand-finishing a job. Worth reading-up and practising. You need first-cut files for this. (I spent a bit of time draw-filing a round barrel to flared octagonal...)
A tip I got from a (very good) gunsmith: if you need to replace parts of a lock, use an annealed file. Even sears and ledges will require no re-hardening. And I sometimes make springs from the tines of old garden forks.
--
Aonghas