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Very Hot Topic (More than 25 Replies) Duplicating original stock finishes (Read 16753 times)
Aonghas
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Re: Duplicating original stock finishes
Reply #30 - Mar 2nd, 2015 at 8:47am
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QuestionableMaynard8130 wrote on Feb 22nd, 2015 at 4:04pm:
many old time stock (and furniture) makers  used a stain brewed from alkanet root shavings long-soaked in turpentine to even out color irregularities in walnut wood.  My understanding is that it was standard practice at Winchester and perhaps others.  
I bought a packet of Alkanet shavings years ago from Dick Binger  I believe he used it when doing Winchester stocks.  He told me to put it in a small bottle of natural turp. and just let its soak like a "sun tea".  Then when doing a stock once its all sanded but before applying any finish rub the turp.- based stain into the wool and let it soak in and dry before applying any finish.  Alkanet can be googled to find sources.


If you want to 'age' walnut (or many other hardwoods - all fruitwoods, oak and mahogany to mention a few), make a weak solution of potassium dichromate and apply it with a brush or swab. Reapply until you have the desired colour.

Note - this is not a stain, this oxidises the wood to the colour that age would naturally bestow, and unlike stain, it does the job properly. By that I mean, the harder (winter growth, etc) parts take on more depth of colour, and the softer areas, less.

Staining imparts a 'negative' quality to the wood, where the softer areas soak-up more stain, leaving the harder areas lighter, and in some cases, almost untouched.

You can use chromic acid instead or, I am informed, ammonia. (But haven't tried ammonia, yet...)

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Aonghas
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Re: Duplicating original stock finishes
Reply #31 - Mar 2nd, 2015 at 8:52am
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BP wrote on Feb 22nd, 2015 at 8:36pm:
Did any of the "logwood" powders provide a red tint?



I was wondering about that - it certainly does when you're browning a barrel...

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GeorgeC
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Re: Duplicating original stock finishes
Reply #32 - Mar 2nd, 2015 at 11:25am
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[quote You can use chromic acid instead or, I am informed, ammonia. (But haven't tried ammonia, yet...) 

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Aonghas [/quote]

What do you use to neutralize chromic acid or ammonia before you seal and finish the wood?
  

Never mind the mule. Just load the wagon.
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Seanmp
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Re: Duplicating original stock finishes
Reply #33 - Mar 2nd, 2015 at 9:20pm
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Usually ammonia is used as a fuming. Its a very very old and common process. Stickley furniture in the Arts and Crafts style is all stained this way

Usually the piece is left to off gas for 72 hours in free circulating air. Thats all that is required for neutralizing.
  

Sean
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Aonghas
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Re: Duplicating original stock finishes
Reply #34 - Mar 3rd, 2015 at 6:29am
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GeorgeC wrote on Mar 2nd, 2015 at 11:25am:
[quote You can use chromic acid instead or, I am informed, ammonia. (But haven't tried ammonia, yet...) 

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Aonghas


What do you use to neutralize chromic acid or ammonia before you seal and finish the wood?
[/quote]

A wash down with rainwater, followed by a weak solution of bicarbonate of soda for chromic acid, then another wash down with rainwater.

My schoolboy chemistry (1950s) suggests that the wood would need no treatment after ammonia. Your eyes, OTOH, might benefit from an eye-bath of clean warm water...

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jfeldman
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Re: Duplicating original stock finishes
Reply #35 - Mar 3rd, 2015 at 10:20pm
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I fumed a forestock on a BSA 12/15 that was several shades lighter than the buttstock.  Stood it up with a saucer of household ammonia and covered it with a plastic trashcan overnight.  Came out great and worked through the finish without any damage.  As per James V. Howe

Regards, Joe
  
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