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RoyB
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Got my Upper Missouri Hepburn Kit...
Jan 14th, 2015 at 3:39pm
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Gonna be a fun project, but a lot more work than I expected. Lots of fitting needed.....and I'm not talking simple filing!

I bought the semi finished kit. Can't imagine how involved the basic castings would be.

All the parts look extremely well made. Should make a nice rifle when finished.
  

Roy B
Dartmouth, MA
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marlinguy
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Ballards may be weaker,
but they sure are neater!

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Re: Got my Upper Missouri Hepburn Kit...
Reply #1 - Jan 14th, 2015 at 8:15pm
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RoyB wrote on Jan 14th, 2015 at 3:39pm:
Gonna be a fun project, but a lot more work than I expected. Lots of fitting needed.....and I'm not talking simple filing!

I bought the semi finished kit. Can't imagine how involved the basic castings would be.

All the parts look extremely well made. Should make a nice rifle when finished.


But their description says you can finish it with hand tools? Wink
  

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harry_eales
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Re: Got my Upper Missouri Hepburn Kit...
Reply #2 - Jan 16th, 2015 at 3:49am
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RoyB,
Document your work and set up's with a digital camera and show us what progress you are making with regular reports. Open a Photobucket account, (despite the last word it is free Smiley). It may encourage others to do the same. Above all, have fun doing the work.

Harry
  
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marlinguy
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Ballards may be weaker,
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Re: Got my Upper Missouri Hepburn Kit...
Reply #3 - Jan 16th, 2015 at 12:43pm
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Yes, I'd enjoy seeing what the receiver looks like as it came to you! I assumed the exterior might be in as cast finish, and would need a fair amount of finishing to get it ready to polish. 
I am very curious how much work they take to complete from a machined kit.
  

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RoyB
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Re: Got my Upper Missouri Hepburn Kit...
Reply #4 - Jan 16th, 2015 at 4:55pm
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I'm posting a new thread with pictures.
  

Roy B
Dartmouth, MA
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ole_pizen_slinger
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Re: Got my Upper Missouri Hepburn Kit...
Reply #5 - Jan 16th, 2015 at 7:50pm
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Roy,
I suggest finding someone with an EDM machine to fit the block.  I used files and a sample block and the final result was about 0.008 thousandths off.  My action and block are now at the machine shop having this work done.  You will have a much better end result going this way but it will add to the cost of the project.  Good luck.
OPS
  
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RoyB
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Re: Got my Upper Missouri Hepburn Kit...
Reply #6 - Jan 16th, 2015 at 8:43pm
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Where were you off .0008 and what were the ramifications?
Are you now building a second one?
  

Roy B
Dartmouth, MA
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jhm
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Re: Got my Upper Missouri Hepburn Kit...
Reply #7 - Jan 17th, 2015 at 7:13am
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I did a 74 Sharps kit a few years back that had no prep for the block mortise. I used a cheap angle block I had and created a fixture to hold the receiver. I made a stub to screw into the receiver where the barrel would go thus holding it true. After some double checking I used a broach I made and using the quill on my mill I proceeded to broach the block mortise. This kept it true and parallel. It took some time but it worked. EDM is good but very expensive and you still have to have a way to hold your part. I talked with a shop and showed them the part and he would not do it cause it was a "gun" part. Just have to adapt sometimes.By the way most of the working tolerances for these things is around .010. If you get them too tight you run into binding issues.



JMHolland
  
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ole_pizen_slinger
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Re: Got my Upper Missouri Hepburn Kit...
Reply #8 - Jan 17th, 2015 at 10:52pm
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Roy,
I built a dummy block strictly to fit the mortise to size.  You are trying to fit the mortise width wise as well as front to back.  All three dimensions must come together for the block to fit plus the firing pin hole must center up when you finish.  I tried to take as little as possible off the mortise surfaces and then fit the block to the mortise.  Width wise everything was good.  Front to back, I was .008 thou off with the block angling toward the front of the action at the bottom of its travel.  When I fit the barrel to the action the block would bind up as it dropped.  I decided that to get the block square with the front of the action and perpendicular with the barrel I would have the mortise squared up by EDM and the block welded up and surface ground to fit the mortise.  I'm not saying it can't be done with files but I was not able to come to a satisfactory outcome by doing so.  Also, for me, it was most important that the block move vertically and perpendicularly with reference to the barrel.  To obtain this fit, I chose to go the EDM route.   

A word about filing.  Some places in the action are close clearance.  While your attention is on the spot you're removing metal, you may find the file is removing metal at an unwanted location.  Also, don't be too eager with machine tools, milling machine, etc.  Nothing about the action can be counted on to be a standard.  The castings have shrinkage and while there is sufficient metal to make the part, it is easy to take too much off.  I bought 3 sets of screws, two extractors, 3 lever springs and 2 trigger springs before getting my action in working order.  The lever spring is especially aggravating.  I finally purchased one from DZ Arms.

I wish you all the best and much fun in this project.
OPS
  
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