ASSRA Forum - brass annealing

ASSRA Forum › General › Reloading the Single Shot Rifle › brass annealing

(Moderator Group: Moderator)

‹ Previous Topic | Next Topic ›

Page Index Toggle

Pages: 1 [2]

Very Hot Topic (More than 25 Replies)

brass annealing (Read 13395 times)

rfd Full Member Offline Posts: 146 Joined: Aug 20^th, 2014	Re: brass annealing Reply #15 - Oct 8^th, 2014 at 8:17am	Print Post
	SSShooter wrote on Oct 8^th, 2014 at 8:06am: rfd wrote on Oct 8^th, 2014 at 5:33am: jfeldman wrote on Oct 7^th, 2014 at 10:17pm: May not need annealing. I use a homemade tool to just barely bell the case mouth so that I can feel it "drag" on the chamber wall as I insert it. Regards, Joe does that prevent the need for annealing, or just further delay the need to anneal? Anything you do to work the brass hastens the need to anneal. Once fire-formed, the least amount of crimp of any type is likely the best. im on the same page with ya, ssshooter. my reply to jfeldman was rhetorical. brass is hardened by working, so no matter how little the brass is resized or crimped or fired it will eventually require annealing before it's gets too hard and splits.

	NRA Life Member ~ NRA RSO ~ (You need to *Login* or *Register* to view media files and links)
	WWW IP Logged

kkid66 Full Member Offline Posts: 186 Location: central tx Joined: Jun 4^th, 2014	Re: brass annealing Reply #16 - Oct 8^th, 2014 at 8:53am	Print Post
	If you run neck tension, you have to anneal to keep it constant and starline has to be annealed more often than WW or RP for me. I use a battery power drill -deep socket- propane torch. I get the room so dark that you can NOT see to work till your eyes adjust and heat the neck till I get the first slight color. The brass will hold that color briefly when you pull it from the heat. I do NOT drop it out of the socket into water. If you buy the fanciest rig on the market you still have to adjust the flame and amount of time brass is heated. LB


	IP Logged

Lumpy Grits Participating Member Offline Posts: 47 Location: Springfield, Missouri U.S.A. Joined: Mar 14^th, 2014	Re: brass annealing Reply #17 - Oct 8^th, 2014 at 5:55pm	Print Post
	Good info here. BTW-water is NOT needed for any non-ferrous metal. (You need to *Login* or *Register* to view media files and links) LG

	Hav'n you along, is like loose'n two good men
	IP Logged

uscra112 Frequent Elocutionist Offline Posts: 4079 Location: Switzerland of Ohio Joined: May 7^th, 2007	Re: brass annealing Reply #18 - Oct 8^th, 2014 at 9:47pm	Print Post
	Quenching does not affect the annealing, but it does prevent heat from travelling down the case walls. I still quench.

	<div class=
	IP Logged

jfeldman ASSRA Board Member Offline Posts: 1112 Location: Imperial Beach, Ca Joined: Nov 5^th, 2005	Re: brass annealing Reply #19 - Oct 8^th, 2014 at 9:56pm	Print Post
	I bought 100 win cases in 1999 and annealed them once around 2003. Been belling them ever since. Have 1 with an enlarged primer pocket from a double charge (stupid me), and 99 that are still just fine. Regards, Joe


	IP Logged

rfd Full Member Offline Posts: 146 Joined: Aug 20^th, 2014	Re: brass annealing Reply #20 - Oct 8^th, 2014 at 9:59pm	Print Post
	jfeldman wrote on Oct 8^th, 2014 at 9:56pm: I bought 100 win cases in 1999 and annealed them once around 2003. Been belling them ever since. Have 1 with an enlarged primer pocket from a double charge (stupid me), and 99 that are still just fine. Regards, Joe how many times were the fired and with what powder/charge?

	NRA Life Member ~ NRA RSO ~ (You need to *Login* or *Register* to view media files and links)
	WWW IP Logged

jfeldman ASSRA Board Member Offline Posts: 1112 Location: Imperial Beach, Ca Joined: Nov 5^th, 2005	Re: brass annealing Reply #21 - Oct 8^th, 2014 at 10:08pm	Print Post
	On average, they are fired a bit over a thousand times a year. Have always used IMR4227 or H4227, charge has varied from 14.3 gr to 14.8 gr. (What I'm using now) Regards, Joe


	IP Logged

Jerry_H Ex Member	Re: brass annealing Reply #22 - Oct 9^th, 2014 at 1:28am	Print Post
	I tried annealing cases once. Now I just spread them out on my driveway and run over them with my F350. I can destroy cases much faster that way. Honestly, if annealing works for you, great. I never found a need for it in 7 + years of BPCR Silhouette. I went from a beginner to Master Class and never annealed a case. I'm still using the original cases I bought for other 45-70 rifles. Not saying annealing doesn't work, or isn't sometimes needed, just don't get caught up in "you have to do this". You don't always have to do what everyone else is doing. Of course, my cases never saw a sizing die, and I never used neck tension. Your mileage will vary. Jerry_H


	IP Logged

rfd Full Member Offline Posts: 146 Joined: Aug 20^th, 2014	Re: brass annealing Reply #23 - Oct 9^th, 2014 at 6:03am	Print Post
	Quote: ... Of course, my cases never saw a sizing die, and I never used neck tension. ... jerry - i've tried fire form case reloading and had problems. sent ya a pm about this - thanx, rob.

	NRA Life Member ~ NRA RSO ~ (You need to *Login* or *Register* to view media files and links)
	WWW IP Logged

40_Rod Frequent Elocutionist Offline Extremism in the persuit of accuracy is not a vice Posts: 4285 Location: Knoxville, TN Joined: Apr 20^th, 2004	Re: brass annealing Reply #24 - Oct 9^th, 2014 at 9:21am	Print Post
	Annealing may have a limited effect with larger longer fixed ammunition. For breech-seated ammunition I see no reason to anneal at all. The only time I use annealing is to form cases with certain brass. Because brass is an excellent conductor of heat it is important to control how far down the case the annealing goes this is especially important with short cases. I set my cases in ice water with just about a half inch standing out then touch the flame from the torch to the case mouth for a second of two. This is generally plenty of time if they are still too hard you can always repeat the process. Remember you can anneal brass you can’t harden it except to work harden it. 40 Rod


	IP Logged

rfd Full Member Offline Posts: 146 Joined: Aug 20^th, 2014	Re: brass annealing Reply #25 - Oct 9^th, 2014 at 4:10pm	Print Post
	today i did some annealing tests with .45-70 starline brass, chucked in a lee case trimmer base and into a drill, tempilaq liquid applied to the inside of the case mouth (750f, single darkish blue stripe) and outside the case (450f, white stripe). as the case spins in the propane flame i look into the case mouth to see when the blueish 750f tempilaq goes clear. the inside of the case mouth is now dark and the outside white stripe has not changed to clear, indicating that the lower half of the case, and more importantly the case head area, was never heated beyond 450f. the head area is lots cooler than the neck, and when the entire case cools down i can pinch the neck mouth with thumb and forefinger and it readily springs right back to shape. so far, this is too easy a process and purty cheap to accomplish. i can see it'd go 100% faster using a socket as the brass holder instead of the lock down trimmer base.

	NRA Life Member ~ NRA RSO ~ (You need to *Login* or *Register* to view media files and links)
	WWW IP Logged

Page Index Toggle

Pages: 1 [2]

‹ Previous Topic | Next Topic ›

« Board Index ‹ Board Top

Top

ASSRA Forum » Powered by YaBB 2.6.12!
YaBB Forum Software © 2000-2026. All Rights Reserved.

Valid XHTML

Valid CSS

Powered by Perl

Source Forge

Page completed in 1.1578 seconds.