Bent_Ramrod wrote on Sep 29
th, 2014 at 3:42pm:
Hochs are sometimes a little tricky. Loosening the bolts on the top and bottom plate assembly slightly (don't forget to tighten nuts afterwards) sometimes does wonders for fillout. There's a lot of mass there, so it needs to run hot, but of course when you are into the rhythm, it can also get too hot.
I agree 100%. I cast my Hoch and Paul Jones using 30:1 and 20:1 is normally at 825 in the pot. I hand dip with a Lyman dipper that has been opened up just a tad in the spout. I have a thermocouple on my mold. I preheat the mold in the lead pot to about 550 and let it come back down and equalize through the blocks and plates. My 33 Hoch I cast at 400 mold temp. I have a let it cool a fuzz between bullets, normally; but can keep a 75 to close to 100 bullets per hour rhythm going. My 25 cal Paul Jones runs at 465 mold temp. Others such as 45 cal 550 grs run about 25 degrees lighter in the pot and in the low 400s on the mold. Never below 775 in the pot. Keeping the mold temp +/- 3 degrees will drop nearly every bullet within .1-.2 gr on the 33s.
I usually throw the first bullet cast back when I start; just feels good to have a fouler I guess

I inspect every bullet as it comes out, especially the base. If there is a problem, it will normally be my mold is too hot, going too fast and a fin starting or debris (lead contamination) on the base plate.
If you are having trouble, never underestimate the value of "smoking" the mold. Take a candle holding it so it gets a good layer of smoke in the mold. Be careful not to contaminate the mold with candle drippings as you maneuver the mold blocks around the candle flame.