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pwDave
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dirty mould
Jul 20th, 2014 at 3:07pm
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Hi all, cast up a little over 200 bullets yesterday and going along fine till I dropped my mould and broke the handle, that brought it all to a halt. anyway, I was cleaning up the mould looking for what was making my bullets look like poop, found a spot on one side that has some lead stuck to it, it doesn't seem to be making a great deal of difference in the bullets weight wise, as they are inside of two grains from heavy to light, but it makes them not want to fall out freely. the mould is a forty cal, smooth side(PP), .395 dia.-379.5 grains, flat bottom.  Now, how do I clean the mould without any damage to the mould? can I heat it up and brush it out with a small brass toothbrush? the mould is a iron, hoch nose pour, and does anybody know if there is any difference in the smoke from, say a kitchen match and a parifin candle?? is there anything that is better than the standard smoking??  I am getting better at this, the temp guage made a world of difference!! the dipper was a waste of time for me, burnt myself several times in quick succession so gave it up pretty quick.   Dave.
  
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John Boy
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Re: dirty mould
Reply #1 - Jul 20th, 2014 at 3:16pm
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the dipper was a waste of time for me, burnt myself several times in quick succession so gave it up pretty quick
GLOVES?
A clean mold needs no prep liquid or smoke and a thermometer is a must ...
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Chickenthief
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Re: dirty mould
Reply #2 - Jul 20th, 2014 at 3:24pm
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Dont smoke! Thats a nasty habit and a good mould dont need it to cast properly.

Cut a (small) piece of hardwood and pick at the lead with that. If there is a small smear left then take a cast bullet and file a fairly large groove in it lengthwise. Insert it in the mold and drill a hole in the nose for a woodscrew. with the screw in place put a dab of toothpaste in the groove and spin the bullet in the mould with a cordless drill. It will be spotless in no time.
  
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pwDave
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Re: dirty mould
Reply #3 - Jul 20th, 2014 at 3:47pm
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Chickenthief, won't the abrasive in the toothpaste wreck the mould edges? I think what happened was too much heat, this mould did not throw a good bullet until the temp was almost at 800, even at that temp if I did not hit the hole just right with the lead stream, the bottom would not fill out, and if the mould cooled for even a minute or so it did not cast right. could that be the smoke I used? as soon as I get a new set of handles I will try a clean mould without the smoke, hopfully that will help. and what about using graphite for lube on the upper and lower plates?
  
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Schutzenbob
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Re: dirty mould
Reply #4 - Jul 20th, 2014 at 3:53pm
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Dave, the hardwood toothpick is a great idea, I always have a pencil or two handy, so if some lead sticks to the inside of the mold I can pick it off with the pencil lead. I often use a penny to scrape lead off the sprue-plate. If I get an old mold with dried or burned on grease, I spray it with Zipoff oven cleaner and let it sit overnight, then you can wash it off with hot water and a soft brush.  Wink
  
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uscra112
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Re: dirty mould
Reply #5 - Jul 20th, 2014 at 6:01pm
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Chickenthief wrote on Jul 20th, 2014 at 3:24pm:
Dont smoke! Thats a nasty habit and a good mould dont need it to cast properly.

Cut a (small) piece of hardwood and pick at the lead with that. If there is a small smear left then take a cast bullet and file a fairly large groove in it lengthwise. Insert it in the mold and drill a hole in the nose for a woodscrew. with the screw in place put a dab of toothpaste in the groove and spin the bullet in the mould with a cordless drill. It will be spotless in no time.


Don't use a screw!  I have a mould that was ruined while lapping it out using a screw to drive the lap.  The screw kept workiing deeper until it came out the tip and cut a furrow in the mould. 

Best thing I have done so far is to use a Torx bit, pressed into an appropriately undersized hole drilled in the bullet.  #10 size on .25 caliber bullets or nose pour moulds.  On larger base-pour bullets use a #15 or even a #20.

My way of removing bonded-on flakes of lead is to get the mould casting-hot on a hot plate, then hit the offending spot with a Bernzo torch for just a couple of seconds, which melts the lead so it can be brushed away with the maple stick.
  

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John Boy
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Re: dirty mould
Reply #6 - Jul 20th, 2014 at 6:43pm
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There are 2 types of lead sticking to a mold:
* A piece or pieces ... you have to break the adhesion of the lead to the mold.  My method is using Eezox that breaks the adhesion and on a flat surface - scrap off using a razor blade.  Also, if lead is in the vent lines - Eezox & a razor blade
* Smeared lead ... use Eezox and bronze wool that can accumlate when one does not let the sprue puddle FROST before cutting it with a sprue plate

Dave if you are running the mold hot, ie. 800 degrees, which I have never cast that high, however long it takes for the sprue puddle to frost - Wait!

IMO, there is nothing wrong with the mold - you should practice using a ladle - have a thermometer in the melt for a constant temp - pour into the mold for 5 seconds and when the sprue puddle frosts in 5 - 7 seconds - cut the sprue - casting with a consistent rhythm and unless you screw up, you'll have perfect fully formed bullet 99% of the time with a Bell Curve less than 1 grain
  
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pwDave
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Re: dirty mould
Reply #7 - Jul 20th, 2014 at 8:06pm
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I will use these things when I get a set of handles, and as soon as my hands heal from the burns!!  thanks a lot fellows, as always, good solid advice.    Dave.
  
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uscra112
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Re: dirty mould
Reply #8 - Jul 20th, 2014 at 9:22pm
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Chickenthief, won't the abrasive in the toothpaste wreck the mould edges?


Nope.  You can lap a mould with 240 grit Clover Compound long enough to enlarge it by .002 and not hurt the edges.  I just did.


Vitamin E on the burns, and get a set of cheap welder's gloves from Northern Tool or Harbor Freight.

Phil


  

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