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pwDave
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starting over with my 40-90 BN PP
Jun 1st, 2014 at 7:27pm
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Well, the first two or three loads have been loaded and shot. all the loads from thirty years ago rotted the brass so I had to procure more brass, fire form and get down to it, the first loads of 90grns of swiss 1-1/2 made too much pressure and was pushing the primers back in the firing pin hole. cut back to 85grn.s of single F swiss. shot two groups of five each, 100 yds, 7.5 inches on one and 7.125 on the other. load is, 85 grn.s 1-F swiss .063 veg wad. .125 felt grease cookie, and another .063 wad, w/the bullet just barely crunching the powder, the bullet is seated about 3/16 deep in to the case, I can pull any of the bullets easily with my fingers. the bullets are 350 grn swaged straight side patched w/ .002 tracing paper, making a finished bullet of .4025, my krieger barrel has a .405 bore, 7degree leade w/ no free bore.  Is there anything in my loads that just sticks out that is just blatenly wrong that doesn't work? my wads may be too big, I'm making them 7/16's because 3/8's wads are loose in the neck. should I make a custom wadcutter to cut .410 wads or is this a non issue? I am using a 3/8's rolling paper "wad" to keep the powder out of the primer hole, CCI BR rifle primers. I am not at this time duplexing and would rather not if I can get away with it, I wipe between shots(one wet, two dry). the sights are the cheap set of lyman front and lee shaver economy soule rear. I would be very grateful if someone with experince with this caliber would point me in the right direction. thanx fellers,  Dave.
  
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SSShooter
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Re: starting over with my 40-90 BN PP
Reply #1 - Jun 1st, 2014 at 7:42pm
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Seems like a light bullet by today's standards. I shoot a 370gr bullet at 200yd/m with 54gr of 2F Swiss, a 400gr bullet at 300yd/m with 58gr of 2F Swiss and a 420gr bullet at 385/500m & 600yd with 60gr of 2F Swiss. For 800/900/1000yd am using the 420gr bullet with 65gr 2F Swiss, all out of my 40-65 with a 32" GM 14.5" twist barreled Hepburn. Your loads strike me as a great deal of powder behind such a light bullet. What is your barrel length and twist? I have some 450gr bullets that are too heavy for my barrel that I would be willing to part with. Send me a PM if interested (or they are going back into the pot).

A couple of folks I shoot with are shooting 40-82s, but they are all using 435-440gr bullets, but not sure how much powder and are GG bullets, like I use.

Suggest you join the Shiloh Sharps forum and ask over there. A bunch of those guys are PP bullet shooters in the larger cases & calibers (44s, 45s & 50s - dont' recall any 40cal PP shooters). Am guessing you'll get more experienced answers out of them.
« Last Edit: Jun 1st, 2014 at 7:50pm by SSShooter »  

Glenn - Stevens 044 1/2, Bartlein SS 5R barrel in 22LR
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pwDave
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Re: starting over with my 40-90 BN PP
Reply #2 - Jun 1st, 2014 at 8:04pm
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The barrel is a 32" 1-16 RHTwist. I have a Hoch nose pour that I have cast about 8 or 9 hundred bullets thru and have maybe got thirty good bullets out of, however when it does make a good bullet it weighs 372 grns. it throws a slug that is .395, which makes the same dia. as the swaged bullets.  I think that my twist might be a bit slow for your 450's. the only reason I am using the light bullets is, I have 400 of them and they are consistant on the weight. my cast bullets will vary 4to5 grns b to b.  Dave.
  
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pwDave
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Re: starting over with my 40-90 BN PP
Reply #3 - Jun 1st, 2014 at 8:11pm
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The shiloh forum canceled my subscription for not posting enough while I was waiting to get my rifle back from the gunsmith. now they won't re-up me, and I can't re-up myself because of that little coded thingie,(color blind), it doesn't look like there is anything in it!  I called and they said they would take care of it, but didn't.  Dave.
  
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MikeT
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Re: starting over with my 40-90 BN PP
Reply #4 - Jun 1st, 2014 at 8:35pm
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Dave,

Is this application for hunting only?  The reason I ask is the bullet patched to 0.4025 is rattling around inside a 0.405 bore.  My PP loads are target oriented, so I try to get the patched bullet to bore diameter; for example if I had a 0.405 bore, I would shoot a 0.4049-0.4055 diameter bullet. Is your barrel for a 405 Win rifle?

What alloy are you casting those 370 gr bullets?  I cast 20:1 in my 40-50BN and 40-70SS, but harder is better in my 40-82 and my 45-70.

For wads, you will need about 0.002-0.004 over groove diameter. 7/16" wads are a bit too much.

With Fg Swiss BP, my favorite primer is Rem 2 1/2.  I put a copy paper wad in the primer pocket.

Keep on hav'n fun!
MikeT
  
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Re: starting over with my 40-90 BN PP
Reply #5 - Jun 1st, 2014 at 8:44pm
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You are correct about your 16" twist and the 450gr bullet. 420gr is probably about tops out of that twist. Don't know much about PP bullets, but think you need to work on your casting. When I cast I segregate in 1/2gr lots and anything over 1gr out is tossed back in the pot. Generally get about 95% yield. Most folks I shoot with are at least as critical. Am surprised your Hoch mould isn't doing better. My 315gr 38cal Hoch is the best casting mould I have. Wish all my moulds cast such a nice, consistent bullet. What temp are you casting at? Ladle or bottom pour? Are you heating the mould to a consistent temp and getting a bullet without any wrinkles or sugar. Most folks cast ~750F +/- 25F, or so.
  

Glenn - Stevens 044 1/2, Bartlein SS 5R barrel in 22LR
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pwDave
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Re: starting over with my 40-90 BN PP
Reply #6 - Jun 5th, 2014 at 5:13pm
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Well, went to the range today and shot two back to back three inch groups at 1 hundred yards. the paper is coming off great, leaving a lot of confetti 3to 4 feet out in front of the muzzle. I have reduced the powder charge to 75 grains and it seems to act better. I had to seat the bullets down in the case a good bit more than I wanted to(half or so),but I didn't know what to use as a filler. I didn't want to use a whole stack of wads, or three or four grease cookies to get my .125 seating depth back. I think that the group size will shrink a lot more with the bullets seated out where they were.  I am going to try some remington primers as most seem to get the best results with them. the paper I used this time was some old patches I cut 30 yrs ago from 25% medium bond typing paper, do they even make typing paper any more? anyway, someone chime in with what is being used nowadays.  Dave.   P.S. does anyone know a fellow named Dick Schrieber in Bloomington Mn. and how I could get in touch with him if possible?    Dave.
  
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MikeT
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Re: starting over with my 40-90 BN PP
Reply #7 - Jun 5th, 2014 at 10:03pm
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I found a Richard Schrieber in the White Pages, phone number 952-888-3940.  Lives on Thomas Ave S in Bloomington.  I do not know him, but the White Pages give an age of 65+.

Keep on hav'n fun!
MikeT
  
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pwDave
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Re: starting over with my 40-90 BN PP
Reply #8 - Jun 6th, 2014 at 3:39pm
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Mike, that is the one! had some corresponance with him 30 yrs ago about my 40-90, area code has been changed from the number I have. Thank you very much.  I have to figure out a way to clean my cases. what will work in my big lyman vibrator?  ceramic? those little stainless thingies? white sand? I don't want the same thing to happen to this batch of cases that happened to the last bunch, and I was sure they were clean. Dave.
  
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oneatatime
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Re: starting over with my 40-90 BN PP
Reply #9 - Jun 6th, 2014 at 3:46pm
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Dave, do you start by decapping and dumping the brass into soapy water as soon as you shoot them?
  
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pwDave
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Re: starting over with my 40-90 BN PP
Reply #10 - Jun 6th, 2014 at 4:30pm
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OAAT, yes, I don't at this time have a decapper to take with me to the range, but they do go in to a soapy water coffee can as soon as they come out of the gun, and are cleaned as soon as I get home from the range(20 min. from home).   Dave.
  
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pwDave
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Re: starting over with my 40-90 BN PP
Reply #11 - Jun 18th, 2014 at 10:25pm
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Well, more loading, more shooting, all my brass is fire formed now, and clean!!  my little ceramic balls in the vibrator do an excellant job, inside and out.  now down to brass tacks, my groups are getting flyers.  had a group three days ago was about 2 1/2 inches for 7 shots w three out three inches in a random pattern. the load was 75 grns 1-f swiss one .413-.063 veg. card wad(.411bore) three wax  cookies, one more card wad, seated the bullet with no compression or neck tension(can easily pull bullets with fingers) bullet seated .125 deep, wrapped with 100% rag bond paper on what I "think" is pure lead (I will get my BIL to check it on the spectograph. the paper is coming off at the muzzle, but in large pieces with not much rifling impression, there is light rifling marks on recovered bullets, with marks on the base from bump-up, 9 1/2 rem. L.R.  the last 1/8 inch has to be pushed into the chamber.  one wet, two dry patches.  now for the questions/   how critical is the patching on the bullets? do I really need the little cigarette paper seperator in the case to keep the powder out of the primer hole? the primers are flowing back into the firing pin hole, but they have always did it since the gun was new,(1980, big hole and pin) they are flowing back enough that I have to snap the hammer again to eject.  the chamber is tight enough that I don't resize.   Dave.
  
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Re: starting over with my 40-90 BN PP
Reply #12 - Jun 26th, 2014 at 10:04am
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With the primer flow you may be getting inconsistent ignition, which will effect the shot. Was having a similar problem (inconsistent ignition) with my 38-56BN and found a piece of 'crud' stuck up under my firing pin (High Wall). The shot would go off, but the variance on the target was significant. Many folks think that if a primer goes off it is always the same. High power shooters know this is not true and it is same with our rifles. Bushing your firing pin may solve your problem and also make the rifle safer to shoot (a pierced primer is always a bad thing).
  

Glenn - Stevens 044 1/2, Bartlein SS 5R barrel in 22LR
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