Ran out of room for photo's. Sorry about the upside down rifle. Rotated it on photobucket but it still posted upside down. You get the picture anyway.
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That's good progress!  You have ten yards on me already, with at least equal size groups!  I'll have to try alternate lubes to the Alox/Beeswax that are on my bullets; maybe that will help.

Now that hurricane season seems to have abated temporarily here in the High Desert, I hope to get back to my own experiments along this line,  Your 44 (pic is rightside up, nice rifle) obviously has a more robust extractor than my Stevens Buckhorn, which tends to pop over the rims and fail to extract.  The inexact rim size of the blanks probably doesn't help, either.  I'm using the .27 Ramset blanks also.  Haven't had a ruptured "case," at least not yet.

Yes, no case, only the Ramset cartridge with the bullet seated to where it hits the rifling.

bisaacson,

I think I read your article.  In my experiments I was just trying to see if any of those .27 caliber drivers would work as-is.  I wish I could find some of the lower power levels, but apparently the 3's are as low as anyone actually sells.

Thanks. I just enjoy making obsolete guns shoot again. I'm lucky enough to have a machine shop at work - good reason not to retire yet. I like the idea of the nail set cartridges, but making the reloadable cartridges lets me tune the set up to the gun. The mould is the Lyman 65 gr. GC flat nose for 25-20 Win. I have a couple of those, too, but also use the 65 gr. in a Stevens tip-up as it isn't very strong. As we say in Hawaii, main thing, stay safe. Nothing wrong with cheap and dirty if it gets another old gun to the range safely so you can have fun with it.

Just checked my ammo supply. Canuck longs and shorts are both 65 grain. Old Peters longs not marked as to bullet weight. Cartridges of the World says 67 grains for longs and does not give weight for shorts. Now I am confused again?

Gentilmen:
PTL Blannks mostly seem to be available generally at "Lowes" and "Home Depot" on the West Coast, but the caliber versus Power Grade availability is generally .22 Cal in Grades 2, 3, 4, 5, and sometimes 6; .25 caliber in grades 2, 3, 4: .27 Caliber sometimes 2, generally 3, 4, sometimes 5, and very infrequently 6.
Lately Amazon,com has had a listing for Grade 1 in .22 Caliber labeled "Simpson Strong Tie" for about $8/100 and noted this morning that there are still 3 boxes in stock.

From other Threads, I note that people have found the .22 and .25 Stevens firing pin locations will still fire the other size in a suitable Barrel with a suitable extractor fitted.

I personally have reformed .22 Hornet Brass to .25 Stevens sizes (diameter, rim, and case length) so it is possible in a home without a 'Machine Shop' in the Garage.

Others have found that a suitable RF Adapter case may be made from a Center Fire one by drilling out the primer pocket anmd flash hole to take a .22 Caliber RF Blank, obviously adding a 'rebate' to the case for the .22 rim.  they also found that the rim of the adapter should be cut to give about .010" to .012" of crush clearance for the firing pin tip, either by a cut on one edge or by reducing the remainder rim thickness all the way around.

Personally I have not made and fired an adapter case yet as I am still gathering the cutting tools to make one repeatably.  I intend to use a Drill press to do the rim rebate to better control depth of cut than using a portable drill.
I did find a potentially suitable dimensioned "Drill Point Counterbore for Cap Screws" for #8 screws at "McMaster-Carr" (Stock Number 29445A13 which will cut the rim rebate to needed size but the drill point will leave the central hole undersize for a .22 case, which can be remedied with a suitable diameter Drill bit.

I hope this information is of use to all.

Best Regards,
Chev. William
owner of Stevens Favorite 1894 and 1915 Rifles, Stevens 44 action in buildup.