Have come across a product that is working great for me and want to pass it on. It is colloidal graphite in isopropanol DAG 156. I have been using this to lube my bullet molds and find that it is working just great. It keeps the sprue plate lubed and helps prevents lead from sticking to the mold under it. I also give the mold cavity a coating and the bullets drop out with little effort. 

First I clean all oil off the mold with carb cleaner and dry it with q-tips or cotton cleaning patches. Then the bottle is given a good shaking to make sure the graphite is mixed as well as it can be. There's a handy little brush on the bottom of the cap and I use it to paint on a coating of the solition. It dries very quickly and leaves a thin film of graphite stuck to the mold surface. This has been holding up for casting better than 300 bullets from a single cavity mold before it get another coating.

Any of you tried this? What do you use?

                                                   Sendaro 

I use nothing on any of my moulds.

I make sure the sprue plate is de burred and dead nuts flat, same for the mould body. clean the blocks edges and make sure no burs.
Make sure the mould body is flat, I use a ground flat surface with fine abrasive cloth to make sure the plate and the block is smooth, clean, and mate together very well.
I do not tighten the screw holding the plate on the block very tight at all. It needs to move under it's own weight when canting the mould.

Never ever do I put anything in the cavity of the mould, never, no need to do so.
If a bullet is not dropping out without a hard tap on the hindge there could be a slight burr in the cavity, if it does not go away and release as I think it should I very lightly deburr with green scrub cloth
around a round brass rod and gently deburr, Very lightly is the key.
Smoking, coating the cavity with anything is never needed in a good clean de burred mould, nothing.

Hi
My Name is John and I'm a Mold Prep addict.

40 Rod

I know the world hates me for it, but I too use mould prep.  I can store a mould for months without getting rust. I cannot measure a difference in the bullet with or without mould prep.   Ledball

   I have tried and don't like the graphite spray lubes or "mould release" compounds   I have never felt the need for anything IN the mould cavity, but regard rubbing hot metal against hot metal as a mechanical cruelty.   For places that WANT lube, mostly the sprue plate, I have finally adopted a colloidal nickel anti-seize compound mixed about 50% in beeswax.   A crayon of this can be occasionally touched to the place where you want the lube.  Mostly this is required on aluminum moulds, where rubbing tends to gall the surface.   This is particularly a problem with the soft aluminum moulds, and the anti-seize compound fixes it. I think it is also a pious idea to give a sparing touch to the pins, also.   

CHRIS
RGChristensen