Has anybody out there shot 35-40 Maynard smokeless loads?  If so, what do you suggest for starting load data?  I have a 175g boolit mold made special for the throat of my Maynard rifle.  Just don't know what powder and weight to start off with.

  Ron Jon U.S.N. -- I am of the opinion that these center fire Maynard conversions, which category they all fall into, are not suited for smokeless powder loading.  The actions were designed and manufactured by Mass Arms under Civil War contracts, were all originally percussion black powder cartridge, and each made it's way back to Mass Arms as war surplus for conversion to central fire.

Now, you say you want to know about smokeless loads?  Not from this Maynard shooter/re-loader.  My umbrella policy is only good for one million maximum.   

C.M.M.

I don't have a 35/40 Maynard, have never shot one nor ever made a barrel for one so I have no experience at all with that cartridge. I'm an advocate of shooting black powder in Maynard black powder cartridges. The only smokeless powder burned in mine are rimfire cartridges. Maynard frames all originated during the Civil War and should be respected as such.

I'm thinking that your 35-40 should be similar to my 32-40, so I would use 2Fg Swiss or KIK, maybe Old Eynesford [sp?] from GOEX.

Use pistol primers and fill the case to the bottom of the bullet for a slight amount of compression.  Wipe the bore between shots for target accuracy [water dampened patch works good]. 

Keep on hav'n fun!
MikeT

Quote:


Ron Jon U.S.N. --- I am sleeping much better now that I know you will do your "distance shooting" w/ the Maynard 35-40 C.F. conversion using Black Powder exclusively.

I have a friend who is not quite as intellegent as you have demostrated you are.  He didn't believe that the standing breech was a cut down percussion action and a new C.F. replacement top was attached to the milled off flat with pins.  He went upon his merry way excercising his right of personal choice, and I wont add what happened.

Well to make a long story short, the surgery went well except they didn't get all those tiny pieces of Norwegian iron, so now when it rains he gets more than a few rust stains running down from his forehead.

Good luck,

C.M.M.
.

Wiping with water when shooting BP can lead to rusting problems unless you are careful about cleaning the gun well soon after shooting. A mix of 5-1 water and water-soluble cutting oil from Arizona Sharpshooters, NAPA auto parts and Amazon works well and helps guard against rusting and also adds a bit of lubricant to barrel between shots. 

I've been experimenting with OE and it is pretty good stuff. Either 2F or 3F should work well in your small cartridge. Don't forget the wad. For 35cal you may need to cut your own with a wad punch. Track of the Wolf and Buffalo Arms are good sources for the punch.