Most of us shoot smokeless. You just have to know if your rifle is capable, which Hiwalls are. We are shooting plain base cast bullets below 1500 FPS (ussually).

Thanks.  I feel better about "drooling" on all these pictures then. 

I guess my next question is about cost.  I know "if you have to ask, you probably can't afford it."  But the really nice reproductions can be had for as little as $2,500 (if that's considered "little") if you don't want to go crazy with the extras.  What are the chances of finding one of the old High Wall, or Hepburn, etc., etc., etc., that I'm seeing on the site, in that range?

Welcome, Chris

You have had some good advice.  My advice is to ask yourself what you really want to do with your new rifle.   

If you want to be competitive in hotly-contested benchrest matches, there is a steep learning curve, with lots of frustration and a lot of practice needed.  Equipment is pricey and your $2500 may not be enough.

But if you just want to try your hand at a local or regional offhand match, or if you just want to try out a single shot when you shoot at gongs with your friends, your $2500 budget should be more than adequate.

In many ways, buying a(nother) single shot is a lot like buying a car.  You do not necessarily need a new one.  There are lots of reasons why a rifle gets sold.  Most of us are old.  We die or get sick and our rifles get sold, on this forum if we're lucky.  Sometimes a guy needs $$ for any number of reasons.   

And sometimes the guy who is selling the rifle just cannot get it to shoot.  I bought a Uberti High Wall from a guy who could not say enough bad about it.  But for me, it is a 1.5-minute rifle.

And sometimes the rifle is a perfect stinker.  I have bought a couple of those, thinking that I knew better.  But I was wrong.   

Collectors pay premiums for top condition & all factory original.  But if you just want to learn and maybe bang away at a gong, you do not need to compete with the collectors.   

I think your choice of a High Wall is a good one.  I have heard & read enough to think that if either of the Italian reproductions has mechanical problems, it should be avoided.  I know nothing about the Japanese made ones, except that the designs have been altered.  The newly US-made actions probably all have high prices. But an original, particularly a "parts" rifle (one put together from salvaged or collected parts) is probably both available & affordable.

One thing more:  Get a common caliber.  32-40 or 38-55 or 45-70.  Brass & bullets are easier to find, there is a lot of good loading data, and resale is easier.

On the low end of the scale friend of mine bought a very shootable Original High Wall for 1100 dollars. Parts gun nothing matched but still looks and works fine except the scope blocks were new and poorly installed. 

That's less than a new CSharps High Wall. Of course new you have choices barrels caliber triggers stock etc.   

I would look for the action your prefer then the caliber and barrel condition. Most other things can be upgraded later. With 2500 to spend figure 500 for sights allowing 2000 for the rifle. Ought to be easy to get going for that.

Boats

Chris
         Be done with the looking and wondering, order a CPA Stevens with your choice of caliber and stock, you'll not be sorry.   Ledball

SSShooter wrote on Feb 14^th, 2014 at 8:43am:


Thanks.  C. Sharp's High Wall in .38-55, doctored up the way I would like, is right at that $2,500 price range.  Thing is, $2,500 is out of my league for right now.  But would sure love to have one of theirs.  I'll just have to keep trying to find the money, I guess.  Oh, and will have to find a way to get it into the house without the little wife catching on!    She really dislikes my interest in firearms. 

One thing you need is good sights, Sight controls every shot fired not a place to skimp.  MVA is the gold standard.  

Way I got into my first CPA was order with unfinished wood. Shot it that way for several years, then sanded out myself for free. Much later had a little cash laying around and had it final finished and checkered. Unfinished wood they are under 2000 dollars. C Sharps may do the same thing. Figure 600 bucks for first class professional sand out checker and finish

Other economy with the CPA is switch barrels. 600 bucks you can change calibers.  Like you I prefer the 38/55 but if going longer than 500 yards better off with a 40 caliber.  You have to add 100 for a block if the new barrel is Rimfire, switch the breechblock for Rim Fire. Considering the cost of actions stocks and sights same gun two barrels is a real savings.

Boats