When I want to mount a scope but don't want to drill mounting holes in an original barrel, I buy a rail made by Steve Earle that has the bases mounted to the rail.  I then glass the rail to the barrel.  If I want it off, I just give it a rap and off it comes.
Phil

BP wrote on Oct 4^th, 2013 at 1:34pm:


That's what it is, all right.  But why did anyone think milling grooves would be easier or less disfiguring than drilling holes for scope blocks--which could be period correct?  (Stevens was first scope maker to offer detachable blocks; prior to that, Stevens mounts were screwed directly to the brl. or mount bases were dovetailed into brl.)

BP wrote on Oct 4^th, 2013 at 3:33pm:


Of course--but why would anyone HAVE to drill into the markings, when there's space for the blocks on either side of them?  If the pre-drilled holes in the rear block crowd the right end of the markings, it's only necessary to drill a third hole that's clear of them.  The usually recommended spacing between blocks (7-3/16" for mounts with 1/2 MOA adjustments) need not be followed mindlessly, although it's obvious that, in the past, most of those drilling these holes were doing so mindlessly.  Scopes sold with blocks included were usually supplied with a drill, tap, & template, so it's likely that many of the ugly mounting jobs seen today were the work of the owner himself.

Referring to Stevens barrels above.  Markings on top flats of Winchester barrels were so spread out that finding "free space" for blocks is usually impossible.