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Chickenthief
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Stop ring mould design
Aug 23rd, 2013 at 6:56am
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So i got Tom at Accurate to cut me a stop ring mould for my 8.15x46R Mauser.

Something went awry and it is way out of specs.
He'll do a replacement free of charge, no problem.

My question is this:
The front part of the bullet, is it supposed to be bore riding?
And if so then how close to bore is it supposed to be?

Bore = .2985"
Groove = .3145"
Inside neck of fired case = .318"

This is the one:
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What dimentions would y'all recommend?
  
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QuestionableMaynard8130
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Re: Stop ring mould design
Reply #1 - Aug 23rd, 2013 at 11:21am
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some of the old original ones were pretty round nosed, based on the German Catalogue pictures Jspencer posted some time back with very little bore riding portion.   makes for a lighter bullet and for 200 yard paper punching they may have worked fine if the rest was well centered and sealed the groove diameter well enough.  If you are shooting longer ranges, higher velocities, and making a longer nosed bullet to get more mass weight, you might want it bore riding for support.  you need to consider the interrelationship between the case length to the mouth, case mouth OD & ID vrs actual chamber diameter and bullet base dia.  also factor in the actual edge of the case mouth to the leade taper to the actual rifling length and how the length and diameter of the stop ring will fit.   The stop ring does more than just keep the bullet form dropping into the case.  I'd think a stop ring that was groove diameter plus a bit and long enough to be a solid contact fit between the case mouth and the beginning of the throat would be desirable---especially if your bolt gun can "cam" the ring into the throat.  You want to get a good seal between the case mouth and the chamber wall.   Id fire-form a few cases several times before settling on a final bullet base OD.
  

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Chickenthief
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Re: Stop ring mould design
Reply #2 - Aug 23rd, 2013 at 12:11pm
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I wont do anything over 200m at best, the rifle is a small ring Mauser made between wars as a hunter. So it is standard iron sights and i got shotty eyesight ie. 100m at best  Wink

I have shot it a lot in search of a suitable bullet and time has come for a custom mould.

So .317"-.318" is the correct diameter for the back part of the bullet (lots of fired cases).
The stop ring @ .325"
It is the dimension of the bore riding part i do not know about
  
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frnkeore
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Re: Stop ring mould design
Reply #3 - Aug 23rd, 2013 at 12:52pm
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My suggestions,

1. Make the base band only .317/.318. What ever size you can reliebly get started in the case mouth.

2. Make the band above it .315

3. Make the aft part of the stop ring .318

4. Make the stop ring .322

5. Make the fore part of the stop ring .315

6. make the area forward of that (bore riding) .300

7. Remember that the alloy can change your as cast diameters.

8. I would also suggest that you neck size (no longer than the area behind the SR) the case so that you know the fit and that the bullet is straight, for sure. The neck has taper and the base band can be loose, back of the mouth.

The above will give you the least amont of distortion, fit the inside of the case as well as possible and still seal the barrel reliably.

With a bullet like this, the next thing to do is lengthen your case until it will just let you bolt close with what ever pressure you feel is right.

8.15x46R chambers are usually a little long and if you don't use a stop ring, the case can be somewhere around 1.94 long. So, make up some cases in .010 increments and see how long a case you can chamber. Make sure you give the case mouth just a very slight chamfer or the stop ring can go inside the case.

Frank

  

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John Boy
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Re: Stop ring mould design
Reply #4 - Aug 23rd, 2013 at 8:00pm
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Jim at Buffalo Arms makes excellent 316180 & 320180 stop ring molds for the 8.15x46R
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Here are the dimensions for the 316 diameter bullet:
* Length - 935
* Nose - 470 length with a taper to 316 diameter
* Band 1 - 314
* Stop Ring - 328
* 2nd Band - 314
* 3rd Band - 314
* Base - 316

I ordered the 316180 by mistake so have not shot this diameter.  I also have the 3320180 and am pleased with the accuracy out to 300yds

Send me a PM if anyone wants some 316180 lubed bullets or if you want to buy my 316180 mold 
« Last Edit: Aug 24th, 2013 at 9:42am by »  
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texasmac
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Re: Stop ring mould design
Reply #5 - Aug 23rd, 2013 at 11:20pm
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Guys,

This is the 1st I've heard of a stop ring bullet.  After reading this thread I'm very curious?  I realize the bullet is designed to seat in the case down to the stop ring, but what advantage does that offer?  Also, what determines the stop ring diameter?  Inquiring minds need to know.

Wayne
  

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frnkeore
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Re: Stop ring mould design
Reply #6 - Aug 24th, 2013 at 2:53am
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The only thing the stop ring does is allow a fixed OAL at the expence of having to swage it down to groove diameter.

The only reason for using that type bullet it is to shoot the rifles in the same manor as is done in Europe. As I understand it, some in Europe are getting away from using it.

I consider it detrimental to accuracy and the reason I suggested reducing the stop ring to just .002 per side.

Frank
  

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QuestionableMaynard8130
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Re: Stop ring mould design
Reply #7 - Aug 24th, 2013 at 8:15am
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Apparently the Germanic way of cartridge shooting /reloading evolved divergently from the American style as muzzleloading offhand target shooting evolved into breechloading cartridge. 

American target shooters who were seeking ultimate accuracy moved from fixed ammo via "breech-muzzle loading" to "breech seating" the projectile separately form the charged case.

I wish I knew more about the whys and wherefore of the germanic target shooting practices.  Maybe sometime BiggiH can enlighten us on their old-time practices.

From what I have found, it seems that with limited firing points, shooters would rack their arms between shots, load and fire in their turn, re-rack and wait for their next shot.
  Some of the old turn-of-th-last-century US matches ran that way too.  That old NY national schuetzenfest article I linked to a week or two ago describes some of the match practices that way.

From the old catalogues is looks like they bought their swedged lead bullets and did not do their own casting like we do.  They did not do cartridge re-loading they way it has evolved here.   A few cases that could be de-capped and re-capped on site with simple tools. primers, a box of "store-bought" bullets, and propellant.  (I have heard of premeasured powder in paper tubes, referred to as "straws" being used)  By having a stop ring it simply kept the bullet from falling down into the case when it was inserted into the charged case.   That avoided having to have some sort of some sort of seating/crimping die and press on hand.
I wonder if there might not have been some sort of legal restrictions on reloading arms or having powder and primers in ones home in that place and time.  The shooting seems to have revolved around established clubs and facilities with the guns kept at the clubs and shooters taking their sights home with them.

Swiss shooters seem to have simply used government issued fixed ammo for their military/target rifles
« Last Edit: Aug 24th, 2013 at 8:20am by QuestionableMaynard8130 »  

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Chickenthief
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Re: Stop ring mould design
Reply #8 - Aug 24th, 2013 at 11:36am
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texasmac wrote on Aug 23rd, 2013 at 11:20pm:
Guys,

This is the 1st I've heard of a stop ring bullet.  After reading this thread I'm very curious?  I realize the bullet is designed to seat in the case down to the stop ring, but what advantage does that offer?  Also, what determines the stop ring diameter?  Inquiring minds need to know.

Wayne


Here is some enlightment:

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Go to
Historical technique 

Then
Reloading "Yesteryear"

There is a complete history of reloading and equipment used.

One thing i can think of that advocated a stop ring bullet, is no case sizing at all. Thus a bullet wont drop into a sloppy case mouth if not fitted with some means of restriction.
  
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Re: Stop ring mould design
Reply #9 - Aug 24th, 2013 at 2:05pm
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Frank,  I tend, perhaps in error, to differentiate between  benchrest accuracy and offhand accuracy.   Think of like a theoretical accuracy and practical accuracy.  
If we compare a 200 yard score target,  we have BR shooters who fairly regularly shoot 250/10X  scores which figure to about 3/4 MOA or less.   the best 10 shot 200 yard off hand was a 241/5x by Jim Feren back in 1993 which must amount to around a 1 1/2 MOA.  

I agree that most of the original rifles will probably shoot more accurately with carefully designed bullets that are breech seated than with stop ring bullets-----if you are shooting an 8.15x46r chambered rifle in benchrest matches and trying to compete with full-blown bench rest rigs and shooters. 

  But to my mind that is not what these rifles are purposed for.  They are offhand rifles by design (and a PITA to shoot "off the bags"; and I think the margin of error inherent in the bullet design is more than  outweighed by the shooters own induced-angle-of-dispersion anyway.
  

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texasmac
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Re: Stop ring mould design
Reply #10 - Aug 24th, 2013 at 2:10pm
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Thanks guys,

That gives me a little better understanding of the reasons for the design.

Wayne
  

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Re: Stop ring mould design
Reply #11 - Aug 24th, 2013 at 8:29pm
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Wayne,
While I would agree that these rifle where built for OH only, I wouldn't agree that you should settle for poor accuracy. The only thing you will get with that is the lucky shot that went the near opposite direction of your flinch and the law of averages should cancel that out. You can't get a true evaluation of your skill w/o that .75 moa accuracy. If you shoot a 200 average or higher, I don't think you'll want a 2.5 moa rifle and I think that's about all a stop ring will do at best. 

As far as Jim Feren goes, he wouldn't settle for any less accuracy than the best BR accuracy. He would not even shoot a DST rifle OH because of the slower lock time.

I've shot mine off the bench a lot and all I need to do that is to have a high front rest. I've only shot mine BSed and wouldn't consider shooting it with a SR bullet. I think you could get much better accuracy shooting a fixed, well fitting bore riding bullet, with a taper on the next two bands and as little in the case as possible. You can also shoot longer bullets in the common twist rate of 14.17 (360mm). 1.12 would be my suggestion. I shoot a 1.03 long bullet at 1300 and will be trying 1.19 long BSed bullet next.

Frank
  

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Re: Stop ring mould design
Reply #12 - Aug 24th, 2013 at 10:53pm
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Frank,

I have no intentions of using a stop ring bullet.  Just wondering what it was.  I can think of several reasons a stop ring design would be less accurate than a properly dimensioned conventional bore ridding GG design.

It may or may not be a different story when breech seating but I don't breech seat.

Wayne
  

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