1480 - 1290 = 190fps spread, which is big.

I've always used FG GOEX. There are less fines in the FG grade and that should bring your ES down. The lube can bring it down a little, too. Did you blow tube it? 

If you don't need straight black, duplexing will help a lot with GOEX, also.

Frank

I would try placing your chronograph as far away as the wire will allow.  The muzzle blast and crud coming out of the rifle will often cause false readings.  I'm betting that your extreme spread is actually way tighter than that. Especially because the max velocity you quoted is very high for such a light load.  I would have expected under 1200fps.

I'll bet that even your first attepts at loading will give you an extreme spread of less than 25fps.  

Edit:  I should add that I shoot a fair bit over the chronograph these days.  My .45-110 rounds use 105gr of powder and they propel a 540gr bullet to about 1360fps out of a 32" barrel.  I can get 1200fps out of my .45-70's with a 530gr bullet but need over 70gr of powder to do it.

Chris.

...and where does one find SPG's primer? Some of us are know-very-littles.

Quote:
Something isn't right!  Here's a Goex chronograph load at 10 ft with a Lyman 457132 using Goex FFFg ...
L457132      531      358      1:20      Starline      Br2      Goex 3F Sifted      73gr      Wax Paper      3.014      1194 fps
Eleven grains less and FFg instead of FFFg -   

Here are some basic BP loading tips:

First get a BP primer or two and learn what you are doing.   

There are a number of differences in loading a BP round from smokeless.

I for one will never duplex my Sharps or Remingtons.  They were designed for BP, and they work well with BP.  I can shoot long strings of shots and clean up is easy, normally one patch with cleaner, a dry patch or two, and one with oil.  Done.

Do not think you are loading a specific number of grains of Black powder.  You are loading a specific volume.  It is the amount of compression you are after, not a specific weight. 

The amount of powder you will use is determined by a number of factors, none of which have to do with the name of the cartridge you are loading.

You can achieve the proper powder compression in a number of ways, ie. a compression die, drop tube, shaking the brass etc.   

You will need to determine just how much powder you need based upon how deeply you wish to seat your bullet. The thickness of your brass and the type of wad you use.   

Your bullet's shape and the chamber of your rifle and even the type of action will tell you how deeply you will seat the bullet into the brass.



The base of your bullet needs to be against the wad and the wad needs to be against the powder.  The simplest way to do this is to use a dowel to press your wad against the powder, and then seat the bullet.  You generally do not want to compress the powder with your bullet, and this can distort the round.

Use a Black Powder Lube, not one designed for smokeless powders, and your bullet needs to carry enough lube to soften the black powder fowling the length of your barrel. Therefor your bullet needs to have wide, deep grease grooves.  It is going to carry a lot of lube down the barrel.
Your bullet needs to match your barrel, it is best if you can slug the barrel to make sure that you have a proper fit of bullet to barrel.

Is this the deal? Who's this Venturino dude?

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