Where can I find a shematic that shows how to disassemble the maynard 1882 action? Thanks Hank45

   Hank ---
               I failed to mention that all of the Maynard actions are of the same basic design, whether percussion or cartridge, with certain minor variations that were instituted as the need arose to make them.

   Are you wanting to disassemble a particular action due to a part failure and the need to correct that problem.  If so, please let us know, since replacement parts are available from at least three reliable sources.

  Or, are you of the mind set that would need to know how things were made and how the parts work together as a cohesive unit, which I readily understand.

  C.M.M.
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Hank ---
           It is best not to use "Vice-Grip" pliers to take off the mainspring tension for the reason that the jaws will have teeth that can easily "score" the spring metal.  As you probably know, once the metal is scored that will present the possibility of the spring failure at that particular point.

If you have any sheet lead or brass, use that material between the spring and the teeth and you're good to go with Vice-Grips.

If the moderator is awake and at the switch, don't be surprised if you see your post moved over to the gunsmithing category at some future time.

Good luck,

C.M.M.

Hank45 wrote on May 12^th, 2013 at 6:43am:


Any three-year-old boy wil ldo it for you

Aonghas

Ron;
       There are actually four sources for Maynard parts; 1) John Bly, 2) Larry Romano 3) Phil Siess trading as S & S Firearms, and 4) The Rifle Shop.

I have no experience with the Rifle Shop, but they are a big supplier of antique firearms kits comprised of the own investment castings, so fit in original Maynards is yet to be determined for me.  Someone else may know about their Maynard kits.

Actually, I should have used the term "box wrench" instead of ring wrench.  Getting the main spring retainer screw is not difficult, but the space limitations require a 90 degree tool and the slot head X hex drive is the answer that I found.  I actually use the very small ratchet wrench that comes with the Lyman "Lubra-Sizer" press that is include by Lyman to fit the lube pressure cylinder tensioning screw.

C.M.M.
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C.M.M. - you are correct that the mainspring and trigger retaining spring retaining screw replacement screw sold by S&S has a square and slotted head - as do the originals. One of the oddities about 1865 civilian and second model military percussion Maynards is that the cones or nipples have a slightly smaller square shank than most other civil war period nipples which means that they also have a different style of nipple wrench with a square hole fitted to their special nipples. Original Maynard wrenches are rather difficult to find these days, but both S&S and Lodgewood sell reproductions of this special wrenches finished both polished in the white and a dark government finish as were the originals. Here is the kicker, these wrenches also, and I'm certain on purpose, fit the mainspring retaining screw. And in my experience this is the only tool needed to dismount and reinstall the screw which is just long enough to catch the threads by pressing down on the wrench when reinstalling the screw. interestingly as with most things Maynard this special screw was continued on into the 1873 and 1882 models which makes one of these wrench, original or reproduction a boon to any fan of Maynards. Man, put down those vise-grips!

Another suggestion to those who are disassembling a Maryard for the first time, especially if it looks like the arm in question does not look like it has disassembled before. As described in this or the other Maynard thread, after separating the barrel from the action the first step is to remove the stock. I have found it  good policy to rap the heal of butt plate firmly in the direction of the action once or twice before turning any of the retaining wood and metal screws, and a gain after removing the screws. I also take a half or full turn out on the two lower tang screws which join the tang to the action before attempting to slide the stock to the rear. These actions I find are very helpful in avoiding any tear-out to the stock.

Bob

  Hello Capt. Bob ---
                           I'm glad you could join us this evening, and particularly appreciate your contribution to the issue of Maynard dissassembly.  I have my parts list already made up for next week at Ft. Shenadoad and one item it to check out the Phil Siess' version of the main spring retainer screw.  If it is in fact long enough, as you say, to catch the lower tang hole threads, I'm all for it.

Do you shoot w/ a N-SSA team and if so would you care to mention the name.  I was previously shooting w/ First Maine H.A.

Welcome to this neck of the woods, the sign says "A.S.S.R.A." but hey, it all folds in together after you've done it for awhile.

Creedmoormatch

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When you are ready to pull out the side plate be careful,most are a really tight fit. I use a small screwdriver from below and one above to wiggle them out. Sometimes with the help of a brass hammer.