have a large batch of recycled projectile that seem to have had the tin component lowered way too low ( I think we had it too hot when melting for the first time and also it had a high proportion of .22lr projectiles in it. Cant get my hands on any lino type for love or money  and am looking for suggestions to up the tin content. Looked at using solder but amount needed would make it unrealistic. Had a few jars of tin ore until I threw them away a few years ago Murphy is alive and well!!Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

I learned to stay away from linotype because the antimony content results in faster leading than pure tin alloys in rifle barrels. The Lead:Tin alloys frequently shot are:

30:1 (3.2% Tin)
25:1 (3.8% Tin)
22:1 (4.3% Tin)
20:1 (4.8% Tin)

Black powder shooters prefer a bit softer lead and Schuetzen shooters using smokeless are mostly using 22:1 or 20:1.

When melting an alloy the alloy will melt first at a lower temperature and the stuff floating is waste metals (Zinc, Aluminum) and should be scooped off and discarded. People think that the Tin is being released. No the Lead:Tin alloy will melt first and the stuff floating on top before it gets too hot is waste metals that help lead your barrel. I clean the surface as soon as it melts to get a purer alloy. Fluxing helps drive some of the impurities back into the alloy. 

I prefer to eliminate as much of the impurities that I can as opposed to having it mixed into the alloy.

Save the antimony for use in handguns.
Yes antimony helps fill out a mold better; but I have found with tough weather conditions it will also lead up a rifle barrel much quicker.

Get a hardness tester and then you will know the amount of tin in your alloy and then you can calculate how much you need to add to get your desired alloy.

I use 30% Tin solder (waste left over in radiator shops) and mix it 1 pound solder to 5 pounds pure lead to get roughly a 20:1 alloy. Got 500 pounds of floor sweepings from a radiator shop and it appears it will meet my life time needs for Tin.

I have been using radiator shop solder and scrap lead for the last ten years. Just make sure you clean it before casting with it.

I buy the lead-free solder dross from the plant where I work.  The LTL (less than truck load) prices are VERY reasonable.  Rendering yields about 80%.

Look for manufacturing companies.  There are about 230 people that work where I do, making motors, and I glean about 120 to 180 lbs of dross a year.  (We do about $40-50 million in business a year.)

Next best would be a recycler business.  Even if that doubles the cost per pound the price would be right.

Automotive radiator repair usually uses 60-40 solder (Sn-Pb).  Not a bad place to get scrap as well.

Yard sales often will yield small bits of solder.

Quote:
First, one has to know what the Bhn rating is for the recycled projectiles.  Then what is the intended Bhn that one wants to use.
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If it were me, I would mix wheel weights to the mix to increase the Bhn.  Clip on WW's normally are Bhn 13.5 or 15.4 hardness

Using Sn is expensive and adding more than 2% tin to a mix decreases the obturation of the bullet in the bore.  I never add more than a half percentage to the mix which increases the fill out of the bullet in the mold

Great forum guys.   I have learned more here than in all the articles I have read.

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pure tin in pellet form. Will post to your door

northern smelter looks to be an Australian company, maybe a little pricey to call let alone mail from?