After having my Ballard re-barreled with a RKS 14 to 11.5 gain twist .321 32-49 barrel, I need to work on a new accurate load.  My first not so methodical tests have not been so good.  I have a new 200 gr Saeco mold on the way to add to my 165 to 185 gr bullets that I have been using.  My question is to which variable to start with.  Besides the bullet type and the usual wind, shooter technique etc. There is position of the barrel/forend on the front rest, seating depth and powder charge.  I have found barrel position 'sweet spots' over time for my .22 and 45-90 but was wondering which to start varying.  I have picked a seating depth for my existing bullets that just seals the barrel completely,  I could stick with a powder charge, say 14gr 4227 and try different rest positions until I find the 'best' group and then vary the powder and or seating depth from there.  OR I could pick a comfortable barrel position and vary the powder charge.  Any suggestions?

Thanks

Jack

Step 1 Accuracy:

You first need to find the proper length bullet for your rifle. For a gain twist you use the tightest twist (11.5) in the Greenhills formula to determine the maximum length of bullet you want. 

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For accuracy shooting at 200 yards the heaviest spitzer bullet is the least affected by the wind.

For my 11.5 twist .321 bore rifle I shoot a Paul Jones 235 grain bullet that is 1.298" long.

The Greenhill's formula states the maximum length bullet I can use is 1.35" long. People shooting a 11.5 twist and .32 caliber are shooting bullets that are 220 to 240 grains in size.

Step 3 Accuracy:

The barrel cannot have different vibrations from movement or touching of the forearm to the barrel. 

It is best to free float the barrel to prevent changes to barrel vibrations from occasional or different load pressures from touching by the stock.

Barrels that cannot be free floated should have the forearm bedded so it is always in the exact same position for contact to the barrel.

For testing of accurate loads always place the forearm in the exact same postion in the sandbags.

Step 5 Accuracy:

Adjust your powder measure and fine tune your operating technique to ensure you obtain a powder load of exactly 0.1 grains. If your powder measure is throwing +/- 0.1 grain loads then it is not accurate enough. It has to be precisely throwing a load to 0.1 grains. If you go above or below by 0.1 grains the vibrations of your barrel changes and you will no longer be on the powder load sweet spot.

Step 7 Accuarcy:

Now you are able to test placing your barrel in a different position on your front rest or on your cross sticks to find out where it has minimal impact to barrel vibrations. i.e. 40 Rod method of identifying point of minimal impact

Dave's methods are solid for determining the best starting place for accuracy. 
  I only disagree (Gently) with Dave on one point. The free floating of barrels. Given that the attachment point between barrel and action is the fulcrum point of the rifle where movement is most likely to happen. (See Pope's notes in Manns book.) The attachment point (receiver ring) on single shots is less than modern high power bench rest rifles and I know of no one who cuts 100% threads. Given this why would anyone just let the barrel wag out there in space. A barrel mounted as tightly as possible with a well bedded for end or better yet a well bedded one-piece stock to help shore up this weak spot is the way to go for accuracy.
40 Rod

I believe the reason barrels are free floated when possible like on a bolt action rifle...is because when contacting the forearm area in a stock ....the pressure point will most likely change with the change in weather etc...When a barrel hangs free from the action on....I believe the barrel does what it needs to do more consistently....

Terry